taking off an inch ...?

[Adrian Levi]

I have a large 7/8 size bass (some claim it to be 4/4) with a 42" string length. Its not the easiest instrument to get around partly due to its broad shoulders but it has a very balanced and rich sound for pizz and for arco.
I am seriously contemplating shortening the scale to 41" and have a couple of questions !

What would the recommended method be / to deepen the neck block and loose some of the ribbing or perhaps to have base of the actual neck heel shortened ?

Thanks
Adrian

[Ken Smith]

I have a large 7/8 size bass (some claim it to be 4/4) with a 42" string length. Its not the easiest instrument to get around partly due to its broad shoulders but it has a very balanced and rich sound for pizz and for arco.
I am seriously contemplating shortening the scale to 41" and have a couple of questions !

What would the recommended method be / to deepen the neck block and loose some of the ribbing or perhaps to have base of the actual neck heel shortened ?

Thanks
Adrian

Anything you do that moves the nut closer to the Bridge moves the notes downwards over the shoulders as well. Every shortening has to be thoroughly thought out. Playability is the key.

Show me some pictures and all the measurements. I am sure there will be questions for more measurements regardless but still, show me/us the bass before you do anything. Shorting to 41" from 42" is a big move. Sometimes just moving the bridge up a bit makes it all easier. A 42" length is not long. Usually I only consider shortening basses that are over 42". That extra inch over 41" is only 1/2" in spacing the first octave. A more desired length these days is 41 1/2". That makes your bass only 1/4" inch longer for the first octave.

Many old broad and cello shaped shouldered basses have been totally cut down and the shoulders sloped. That is a huge job and requires the edging and purfling replaced in the process if you want the bass to look right after the job. This is something that is usually only done on finer more expensive basses as the cost of a job like this costs more tahn the average bass itself.

[Adrian Levi]

Anything you do that moves the nut closer to the Bridge moves the notes downwards over the shoulders as well. Every shortening has to be thoroughly thought out. Playability is the key.

Show me some pictures and all the measurements. I am sure there will be questions for more measurements regardless but still, show me/us the bass before you do anything. Shorting to 41" from 42" is a big move. Sometimes just moving the bridge up a bit makes it all easier. A 42" length is not long. Usually I only consider shortening basses that are over 42". That extra inch over 41" is only 1/2" in spacing the first octave. A more desired length these days is 41 1/2". That makes your bass only 1/4" inch longer for the first octave.

Many old broad and cello shaped shouldered basses have been totally cut down and the shoulders sloped. That is a huge job and requires the edging and purfling replaced in the process if you want the bass to look right after the job. This is something that is usually only done on finer more expensive basses as the cost of a job like this costs more tahn the average bass itself.

The bass in question is this one - heres the link from a previous posting on the site -
http://www.smithbassforums.com/showthread.php?t=1203

I do say that the bass is 42,5" in the original post but on re checking found it to be 42".
The neck came loose last week , and with minimal effort I gently worked it free from the body so that it wouldn't break the ribbing.
The neck was so badly glued on that it was fortuitous that it didn't just break off during a performance , before re-gluing I thought that maybe its time to look at making the bass 'easier to get around on'!!
The bass was never overly difficult to play , but it does require more effort in the left arm angle to get a correct and even 'classical grip' .
Maybe it hasn't got anything to scale of the bass at all ? What other factors should be considered before shortening the string length?

[Arnold Schnitzer]

Ken is right on when he says that shortening your neck will essentially make your bass harder to play, especially if it has big shoulders. However, you might consider a bit of neck shortening combined with moving the bridge up a bit. Doing this would keep the transition-area notes in about the same place.

[Sam Sherry]

You need to consult with a good luthier. There are other things beside re-shaping the instrument -- or even shortening the neck -- which can be more affordable and more reversible.

You say you like the sound of your bass but have trouble getting around because of "the shoulders." Maybe increasing the overstand (i.e. the height of the fingerboard off the body, and related angles) would let you keep all of the sound and all of the value of your instrument but make thumb position playing easier.

If there was ever a time to think that stuff through it's while you have your neck loose!

Anyway, check hard before hauling out the Saws-All.

[Sam Sherry]

I just read my post and my jaw dropped. Arnold Schnitzer is one of the best-reputed bass luthiers in the US. My post reads like, "Having heard from Arnold the OP must now consult with a good etc." That's not at all what I meant.

Sorry Arnold! Please accept my apology.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

I'm so offended. I don't know if I can ever get over it. :D

[Ken Smith]

I'm so offended. I don't know if I can ever get over it. :D

Yeah.. probably not..:p

Take off an Inch? Don't you have to be a Mohel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohel) to do that or can a Luthier sub on a rainy night?:eek: