Bass Set-ups

[Tim Bishop]

Ken pretty much nails down a good set-up before the bass leaves the shop, however, I was curious how all you Smith players like your bass set-up?

From the bridge to the nut and truss rod to your preference of bass strings. Let's hear about it:

1. The first thing I usually do is make sure the strings are fresh. Rarely, but on occasion, you can get a bad string. If so, I replace with fresh Smith medium Taper Cores.

2. Then I play for feel. If necessary, I will adjust the bridge and truss rod according to my preference of feel and playing style.

3. Then I tune the neck by the fretted note at the 12th. fret with the harmonic of the same within +/- a penny.

4. Then I take the bass for a test drive unplugged. I like to hear what the bass produces naturally (i.e. what do the woods contribute).

5. Then I take the bass for a test drive plugged in. On occasion I may adjust the gain (if available) of the bass internally if I feel the need to better match the instrument's electronic potential with that of the amp, but without overdriving the amp.

6. Lastly, but rarely do I need to adjust the P/U's, however, I am interested in the precise adjustment advantages of the pole pieces of the P/U's. For example: I usually listen for the signal strength of each played string up and down the neck. If one sounds a bit weaker than another, I will adjust the pole pieces accordingly until I reach a consistent level up and down the neck.

7. Then I just have fun!

Ok, who's next?

[Tim Bishop]

Well, I guess no one has a preference or particular routine for set-up's? :confused:

[BobWankowski]

Burner Nickel Medium Tapered 6 for me on both fretted and fretless.
Just the tiniest hint of relief on the neck and low action (no buzz) with the strings following the radius of the board. Bridge strobe tuned at the 12th and 24th (no problem on Smith basses;) ) then good to go.

I stick with the same strings now (after much trial and error) and so my set up stays consistent season to season.

[Tim Bishop]

Burner Nickel Medium Tapered 6 for me on both fretted and fretless.
Just the tiniest hint of relief on the neck and low action (no buzz) with the strings following the radius of the board. Bridge strobe tuned at the 12th and 24th (no problem on Smith basses;) ) then good to go.

I stick with the same strings now (after much trial and error) and so my set up stays consistent season to season.


Bob, I'm curious: What is your reasoning for choosing Nickel's? Can you tell me what you like about them? :confused:

[BobWankowski]

Bob, I'm curious: What is your reasoning for choosing Nickel's? Can you tell me what you like about them? :confused:

That's easy. Specifically the "Smith" Nickels sound clear and warm right from the start. On my fretted they sound wonderful and jazz guitar-like up high, clear and piano like down low and have a great slap sound. My BSR6G is a bright bass to begin with so that may have something to do with it. There is no break in period with these so the tone is pretty consistent for the life of the string.

On my fretless they give me any fretless sound I want depending on pickup/eq settings and they are pretty easy on the Ebony board.

I really like them better than the other Nickel or stainless strings I've tried and I've pretty much tried them all. Funny how my whole string experiment took me right back to the Smith Burner's I liked to begin with.
It's likely I'll use them on my 3rd Smith whenever that happens though since I saved all the strings from my experiment I'll likely test again as the wood variations do make a difference and when I get my fretted bolt on Walnut I may prefer a steel string.

Best,
Bob

Post script:
Actually just got my CR6GF (fretless) back from my Luthier Savant after having the fingerboard redressed and am giving a set of TI Jazz Flats a whirl.
I had them on a Pentabuzz but they were not a player in my "6 string test". I'll keep the post up on how they fare after a little break-in period.

[Bob Faulkner]

I play mainly fretless. I've honestly never changed the setup on my Smith at all. Everything was pretty much perfect. Ken had adjusted the G string to run with much lower action than the rest of the strings which makes the fretless growl from that string really stand out while the other strings have a much more moderate growl but stronger fundamentals. I've found I really enjoy that setup. I'm not a big fan of over the top fretless growl down low but a nice warm, moderate growl accenting the fundamental is a sweet thing. On the higher pitch notes the bright growl really stands out and is perfect.. I've setup all my fretless basses along these lines now.

I use both Smith slick rounds and compressors on my fretless basses. I currently have compressors on my Smith.

[Tim Bishop]

I play mainly fretless. I've honestly never changed the setup on my Smith at all. Everything was pretty much perfect. Ken had adjusted the G string to run with much lower action than the rest of the strings which makes the fretless growl from that string really stand out while the other strings have a much more moderate growl but stronger fundamentals. I've found I really enjoy that setup. I'm not a big fan of over the top fretless growl down low but a nice warm, moderate growl accenting the fundamental is a sweet thing. On the higher pitch notes the bright growl really stands out and is perfect.. I've setup all my fretless basses along these lines now.

I use both Smith slick rounds and compressors on my fretless basses. I currently have compressors on my Smith.

Bob, why do you like these strings over, say, the Stainless Steel Taper Cores? :confused:

[Bob Faulkner]

Bob, why do you like these strings over, say, the Stainless Steel Taper Cores? :confused:

Well, I like to maintain the integrity of my fingers and my fingerboard as much as possible. Rubbing something that could take the finish off my truck over my beautiful ebony fingerboard is not something I would enjoy doing.

I've found the slicks, and especially the compressors, are much easier on the fingerboard and my fingers while still retaining most of that round wound zing. The compressors are a little harder on the fingers than the slicks, but the gain in tone makes up for it.

The slicks are probably my favorite for pure feel. They make doing slides and deep vibrato on the fretless more comfortable, and also dramatically reduce finger scrape noises. The compressors aren't as comfortable and quiet as the slicks on slides and deep vibrato, but are much more comfortable than round wounds.

Ken shipped my fretless to me with taper core rounds on it. I played it for exactly 5 minutes before I saw the carnage they were releasing on my fingerboard (that 5 minutes was more wear on the fingerboard than the next 5.5 years with slicks) and then went straight to the store and bought the only pack of flats they had in stock. I then spent about 6 months testing different brands and types of flat and compromise strings before I settled on Smith slicks as the best feel and wear vs tone. I've recently started using the compressors and they're great, but I still like the slicks in general. I'm still kinda undecided on which type to stick with.

[Tim Bishop]

Well, I like to maintain the integrity of my fingers and my fingerboard as much as possible. Rubbing something that could take the finish off my truck over my beautiful ebony fingerboard is not something I would enjoy doing.

I've found the slicks, and especially the compressors, are much easier on the fingerboard and my fingers while still retaining most of that round wound zing. The compressors are a little harder on the fingers than the slicks, but the gain in tone makes up for it.

The slicks are probably my favorite for pure feel. They make doing slides and deep vibrato on the fretless more comfortable, and also dramatically reduce finger scrape noises. The compressors aren't as comfortable and quiet as the slicks on slides and deep vibrato, but are much more comfortable than round wounds.

Ken shipped my fretless to me with taper core rounds on it. I played it for exactly 5 minutes before I saw the carnage they were releasing on my fingerboard (that 5 minutes was more wear on the fingerboard than the next 5.5 years with slicks) and then went straight to the store and bought the only pack of flats they had in stock. I then spent about 6 months testing different brands and types of flat and compromise strings before I settled on Smith slicks as the best feel and wear vs tone. I've recently started using the compressors and they're great, but I still like the slicks in general. I'm still kinda undecided on which type to stick with.

Oh well, given the subjectivity of my question, I would expect varying responses on this one.

I personally will stick with the Taper Cores since they bring it all. I'm not concerned about fretboard wear with them; I don't think my playing style would lend itself to the type of abuse you reference. But again, that's why there are all types of flavors out there. ;)

I would love to hear from others about this topic. :)

[Bob Faulkner]

Well, it's not like I try to squeeze the string through the back of the neck, I play fairly light in fact. But that first 5 minutes the fingerboard looked like I had taken a chisel with a serrated edge to it. Even today you can still see those initial scars. I switched strings then and never looked back. I've gotten to the point now where I don't even like rounds at all, on any bass I play. The compressors are as close to that type of string as I want to get.

[Tim Bishop]

Well, it's not like I try to squeeze the string through the back of the neck, I play fairly lightly in fact. But that first 5 minutes the fingerboard looked like I had taken a chisel with a serrated edge to it. Even today you can still see those initial scars. I switched strings then and never looked back. I've gotten to the point now where I don't even like rounds at all, on any bass I play. The compressors are as close to that type of string as I want to get.


"Fingerboard looked like I had taken a chisel with a serrated edge to it"??? Hmmm, very odd. I could understand some superficial lines left on the fingerboard from the strings, but I've never had the kind of issue you describe. :confused:

Is the fingerboard Ebony or other?

[Bob Faulkner]

It's ebony.. Mind you I stopped at 5 minutes, but it was apparent at 5 minutes that several hours of playing would have worn a noticeable trench into the wood. Maybe that set of rounds Ken put on it then were diamond edged or something. I don't know. No other strings I've had on it have ever really worn the board at all. Even now, 5.5 years of playing with slicks later, the board looks like someone buffed it more than any real wear. At the current rate of wear, this fingerboard will outlive me without having to be redressed.

[Tim Bishop]

It's ebony.. Mind you I stopped at 5 minutes, but it was apparent at 5 minutes that several hours of playing would have worn a noticeable trench into the wood. Maybe that set of rounds Ken put on it then were diamond edged or something. I don't know. No other strings I've had on it have ever really worn the board at all. Even now, 5.5 years of playing with slicks later, the board looks like someone buffed it more than any real wear. At the current rate of wear, this fingerboard will outlive me without having to be redressed.


I've been playing mine for years with Taper Cores: Hasn't been an issue for me. :confused:

[Dennis Michaels]

For me it is Smith Custom Balanced Taper Core Mediums.
My fretless is set up with almost no relief in the truss and the strings are laying on the neck almost. This seam to really bring out the Growl factor (not that it needed any help).
My fretted has a hint of relief and are to only give me fret noise when I want it. The slap and R&B tone of this is amazing with out fretnoise. When I am rocking I want a lit bit of fret rattle because to me I don't want it to sound as pretty as Smith's sound totaly clear. It also allows me to bend the neck farther without feeling as tho the neck will go past it's limits. (see you tube video)...lol

One day I'll have a seperate fretted 4 or 5 to set up just for rock.

[Bill Doss]

I set mine by pressing the strings at the 24th fret and allowing about 3.5mm from the top of the pickups. This measurements seem to provide consistent sound between strings and pickups regardless of string height, since you are using the end of the fretboard as a refrence.

I also set my string height by measuring 6/64ths from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of my B string, 5/64ths on the E to G strings and 4/64ths on the C string of my BSR6EG. I allow a small amount of relief to avoid rattles.

Works for me!

Ken, do you have a magic formula or set up the basses by feel only?

Bill Doss
Myspace.com/EL84

[Jonny Blomgren]

A couple of weeks ago I got my BSR6GN setup with the PLEK (http://www.plek.com) system at Guitarlabs Scandinavia. The setup had been declining over the years by my own tampering. So after trying the PLEK system on one guitar and a fender j-bass I decided to let them do it to my precious Smith. And the results were fantastic. Or as they said "We didn't need to do much at all".
Lesson learned: I wont mess with the setup myself again.
However I got a lot of comments on how nice my bass looked and how well built it was. :)

I'm using Warwick stainles steel strings with a tapered B, since they're much easier to find in Sweden and in internetshops around Europe.

[Gerry Sivers]

Hello everyone

Just thought I'd resurrect an old thread to see if I could get some help.
I finally got my BSR5MW and while I love the way it sounds, I can't play it yet because I'm missing the saddle height adjustment screw for the "D" string. Ken told me that I'd have to measure it since they are different lengths but since it's missing, I can't. Does anyone know what length would go on the "D" string saddle and what size allen key will fit?
I can then go to a machine shop or call Ken back, set my bass up and finally play!
Thanks.

[Ken Smith]

Hello everyone

Just thought I'd resurrect an old thread to see if I could get some help.
I finally got my BSR5MW and while I love the way it sounds, I can't play it yet because I'm missing the saddle height adjustment screw for the "D" string. Ken told me that I'd have to measure it since they are different lengths but since it's missing, I can't. Does anyone know what length would go on the "D" string saddle and what size allen key will fit?
I can then go to a machine shop or call Ken back, set my bass up and finally play!
Thanks.

Ok, each saddle has 2 screws to raise and lower. Are you missing both or just one of them? If one, then pull the other one out and measure it. I don't recall if you mentioned what string it was for. I can also look at a Bridge here but I asked for the sized probably because of that. The Allen key is .050" for the bridge height screws.

[Gerry Sivers]

Ok, each saddle has 2 screws to raise and lower. Are you missing both or just one of them? If one, then pull the other one out and measure it. I don't recall if you mentioned what string it was for. I can also look at a Bridge here but I asked for the sized probably because of that. The Allen key is .050" for the bridge height screws.

Thanks Ken, I'm sorry I didn't go into detail because I didn't have the bass right in front of me and I didn't want to keep you on the phone since you weren't feeling well. I hope you are recovering quickly btw;).
You are correct, I didn't mention what string.
It is the screw on the "D" saddle closest to the "G" string. I probably would have thought you meant each individual screw was different:o.
I'm going to have to go buy that .050" since it's smaller than any I use on my other basses. Thanks.

[Ken Smith]

Thanks Ken, I'm sorry I didn't go into detail because I didn't have the bass right in front of me and I didn't want to keep you on the phone since you weren't feeling well. I hope you are recovering quickly btw;).
You are correct, I didn't mention what string.
It is the screw on the "D" saddle closest to the "G" string. I probably would have thought you meant each individual screw was different:o.
I'm going to have to go buy that .050" since it's smaller than any I use on my other basses. Thanks.

If you are buying Smith Strings soon (TCRM-5s?), I can send both the screw and .050" included in the package. No big deal. If not, I can still mail them to you. Just let me know either way.

I am feeling much better as well. Thank's for asking. I am in the office practicing DB and it's been the best therapy for my arm. It tells me what I can or can't do and each day is better than the last.

[Gerry Sivers]

Yes, those are the strings. I'll be ordering on Monday morning and thank you for the assistance.
I really need to say that even without a proper set up, I can not put this bass down! It sounds amazing and was worth every penny paid!

[Ken Smith]

Yes, those are the strings. I'll be ordering on Monday morning and thank you for the assistance.
I really need to say that even without a proper set up, I can not put this bass down! It sounds amazing and was worth every penny paid!

You know Gerry, you are close enough to bring the bass over, have it set-up and checked out while you wait and drive right home. Just another option to offer you.

[Gerry Sivers]

You know Gerry, you are close enough to bring the bass over, have it set-up and checked out while you wait and drive right home. Just another option to offer you.
Thank you so much.:) I will call to make a formal appointment but I'm looking to come on Monday or Tuesday this week if that's ok. I'll be in Philly anyway. Owning this bass is turning out to be a wonderful experience. I'm very interested to see what this bass will be like with a proper set up.

[Ken Smith]

Thank you so much.:) I will call to make a formal appointment but I'm looking to come on Monday or Tuesday this week if that's ok. I'll be in Philly anyway. Owning this bass is turning out to be a wonderful experience. I'm very interested to see what this bass will be like with a proper set up.

Just call me Monday. I should be in all day.