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View Full Version : When it comes to DB tops what are the wood choices?


Ruben E garcia
10-04-2010, 03:08 PM
Other that the Obvious Spruce, what are good choices to make a DB top…???
And for the Americans Luthier’s how much should I be ready to put down for a top?
Seems like when we add the world tone wood increase to a piece of wood the price become 2 or 3 times what it should be!!!
And last one, if you guys can recommend places online or close to Atlanta to buy quality non-super expensive wood\lumber for instrument building, I will appreciate your help?

Thomas Erickson
10-06-2010, 01:39 AM
Yes, tone wood is expensive - it has to be the best cuts from the best trees, prepared properly and aged as well.

Other than spruce you can look at cedar; western red cedar can be good and there are a couple of other varieties that might be useable, I think. Different kinds of fir and pine have been used too, but I don't know that you'll find any these days that is what you want; you could look into things like salvaged wood from old structures and the guys who pull giant old logs out of lakes and whatnot, but you're in uncharted territory and getting pretty far from starting on a bass. ;)

Ken Smith
10-06-2010, 02:14 AM
There are many many kinds of Spruce and also Pine which has also been used on many Basses made in England, Italy and USA.

I am no expert in ID'ing Top species but I have owned many kinds of basses with almost as many species of Pine and Spruce.

For strength and durability medium to fine grained quartered Spruce is usually preferred. Basses with wider grained Tops are not as strong. Besides the Top wood itself, the arching and thicknessing are equally important.

I have seen 200 year old 3-piece odd grained Tops in fantastic condition and I have seen new basses with decent looking grain Tops as well that have already sunken in. The difference there was HOW the Bass was made, not from WHAT it was made from.

Care and usage also comes into play as well. Aging/seasoning of the wood plays a huge part also. Climate where the bass was made and where it is moved to live will also affect the Top as well as the entire bass.

My advice from having vast experience of ownership, restorations contracted and numerous basses viewed is to put your concentration on all factors, not just the species of wood.

That would almost be as blind sided as picking a car buy just the color alone!

Thomas Erickson
10-06-2010, 05:37 AM
I hate being blind sided when picking a car based on color! :D

Ruben E garcia
10-06-2010, 10:32 AM
Thank everyone for welcome me and for your responses, I do have some knowledge about wood, I know what to look for, but I like to see what I’m buying… there are not two identical wood pieces, now this is going to be my first Acoustic build and a “DB” is an huge undertaking.. I don’t want to be too worried about messing up an $500-$700+ wood piece for the top only… that’s for me is very scary…I may start by building an Acoustic Guitar/bass first and read a some books, before jumping in J
On www.alaskatonewood.com (http://www.alaskatonewood.com/) I found the most reasonable price for an DB top: spruce around $200, that’s is not bad I guess…another thing is that I’m living now Atlanta but I came from Miami and I knew a couple places to go and see tons of all kinds of wood… I haven’t found yet any place like that here…

PS ken I'm a big fan of yours

Ruben E garcia
10-06-2010, 10:34 AM
Welcome Ruben!

I doubt if anyone will recommend anything other than spruce for the bass- top--------quality and kind vary. Experienced makers can speak to that better than I.

price-suggest you do a search "tonewoods for double bass" and let the fun begin- some very good suppliers and some you want to stay away from-price will vary depending on the grade(grain) of the wood. If you want to email me wholmesbassviol@yahoo.com or call me at 731-742-4107. I will tell you my experience with buying wood.

For your last question- do a search sawmills and tree removal businesses in your area. They sometimes get poplar and maple large enough to quarter for the back and sides.- Then you have to let it age. Also, you can contact International Violin, Methopolitan music, Howard Core Co-they will sell to "do it yourselfers" or shops.

Finding wood is not easy but it can be done with a lot of phone calls, emails and leg work. You can expect to spend several hundreds for top quality wood to build a bass. You are wise to ask a lot of questions and do a complete research before you lay out any money. In my humbled opinion/experience. The best of luck to you!

Thank you Wayne you are very kind, I will contact you for sure I can use some good adviste.......:D

Ruben E garcia
10-06-2010, 03:24 PM
For what I can get, is softwoods are the way to go, when it comes to bass top… until now I though that Pine, Douglas fir were use mostly for construction proposes!!!

Ken Smith
10-06-2010, 03:38 PM
For what I can get, is softwoods are the way to go, when it comes to bass top… until now I though that Pine, Douglas fir were use mostly for construction proposes!!!


Well, Spruce and Pine ARE soft woods by classification. All acoustic type Top woods are made from this. If too hard, it won't vibrate. This has been the case for over 500 years. On occasion someone breaks the rule. Good luck with that!

james condino
10-06-2010, 07:58 PM
I think this is my first post here; usually I'm just a lurker. For the last three decades, I've probably shopped for tonewoods at least three days a week, every week of the year and I wind up buying 4-5 times a year. I've found nice bass tops for as low as $175 and as high as $1000+. Usually the closer you get to the person who actually cut the wood, the better the price. Every time the wood changes hands, the price tends to double ( or more), so buying from larger retailers who just broker it from other folks is not a great way to go. The Alaska folks should be a reasonable choice for a fair price. Pacific Rim tonewoods had a very nice supply earlier this year. If you are in doubt, just ask them if you can have a return policy or right of refusal, that way you are only out the cost of shipping. Remember that there is a HUGE difference between a nice seasoned instrument grade spruce billet and just a big chunk of 6 month old wet spruce. Ask the folks that actually build and they'll generally set you on the right path.

Having done it myself many times, the last being earlier this year, I'll also add that in almost every part of this country you can get a US Forest service firewoood permit for about $20 that will allow you to fill up the back of your pickup with nice instrument grade timbers. The species may vary, but they are out there. It is hard work, but I enjoy it. I also HIGHLY recommend making a roadtrip to the pacific northwest and visiting a few dozen suppliers onsight and hand selecting through thousands of boards just to bring home your favorite couple. It is a valuable learning experience and you'll also make some lifelong contacts with the individual suppliers.

I'd suggest you buy two tops for your first build; that gives you a nice safety net if you completely blow it or if you wind up finding huge inclusions or a chipmonk living inside of the boards. If everything goes well, then you'll have a nice top already set aside for #2.

j.

Ken Smith
10-06-2010, 08:48 PM
........... I'd suggest you buy two tops for your first build; that gives you a nice safety net if you completely blow it or if you wind up finding huge inclusions or a chipmonk living inside of the boards. If everything goes well, then you'll have a nice top already set aside for #2.j.

Chipmunks? Do they make good pets?:confused:
http://www.st-elmo-colorado.com/chipmunks7.jpg

Ken Smith
10-07-2010, 12:44 AM
Ken, just look at those artistic hands- why she has four of them-upper and lower hands -- looks like she's rolling a weed and playing the piano at the same time. America does have talent, afterall.

That's right little munk- curve your fingers over the keys, now! one, two, three, four- Christmas, Christmas time is here (COUNT) time for toys and time for cheer--we've been good but we can't last(RHYTHM!)...

Alvinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

Ruben E garcia
10-07-2010, 08:27 AM
Remember that there is a HUGE difference between a nice seasoned instrument grade spruce billet and just a big chunk of 6 month old wet spruce. Ask the folks that actually build and they'll generally set you on the right path.


j.

And That’s takes me to the other point… Moisture content, for furniture making I always heard that 8% is the number… for a piece of Spruce most be similar or look for a kiln dried piece of 2 years or more?

I don’t have a moisture meter but the Pine that u get a home depot moves more than a living tree…(joke)

Arnold Schnitzer
10-07-2010, 08:50 AM
Moisture content is important, and 8% is a good starting point. It's also important to use wood that has been properly "tortured". Tonewood needs to be stored in a place with good ventilation, but where it can season with the climate. For example, here in the Northeast, wood that is seasoned outdoors will undergo everything from zero to a hundred degrees (Fahrenheit) and 15% to 100% relative humidity. After several years of this, the wood will have stabilized, and then it needs to be brought into the shop for acclimatizing. This takes anywhere from a year to 3 or 4 years. Ideally, the wood ends up drier than it will become in its life as an instrument, because wood that has been over-dried will not expand and contract as much in its future as wood that has not.

Ruben E garcia
10-07-2010, 12:56 PM
thanks to you guys I have an Idea where to start in this project...

Ruben E garcia
10-22-2010, 10:57 AM
Moisture content is important, and 8% is a good starting point. It's also important to use wood that has been properly "tortured". Tonewood needs to be stored in a place with good ventilation, but where it can season with the climate. For example, here in the Northeast, wood that is seasoned outdoors will undergo everything from zero to a hundred degrees (Fahrenheit) and 15% to 100% relative humidity. After several years of this, the wood will have stabilized, and then it needs to be brought into the shop for acclimatizing. This takes anywhere from a year to 3 or 4 years. Ideally, the wood ends up drier than it will become in its life as an instrument, because wood that has been over-dried will not expand and contract as much in its future as wood that has not.
PS did you get my PM