Neck Reset Questions

[Eric Hochberg]

I have a bass with a low overstand (3/4") and bridge (5.5"). I'm not happy with the playability of the instrument and have been considering having the neck brought out. It looks like the neck was already brought out once, as the heel is two pieces of wood. The bass has a raised saddle, but even so, has a tendency to get tight at times.

My questions relate to the results of bringing out the neck. Is it inevitable that the instrument will get tighter feeling due to a more acute angle across the bridge causing more pressure on the top? Can the neck angle be reduced to counter this?

I'm also concerned with the sound of the instrument after the reset. Might it change? Any generalizations here? I really like the way the bass sounds now, it's on the dark side with a nice fat G string.

Anything else I'm missing? Any comments, especially from luthiers who have a lot of experience with this will be appreciated!

[Ken Smith]

I have a bass with a low overstand (3/4") and bridge (5.5"). I'm not happy with the playability of the instrument and have been considering having the neck brought out. It looks like the neck was already brought out once, as the heel is two pieces of wood. The bass has a raised saddle, but even so, has a tendency to get tight at times.

My questions relate to the results of bringing out the neck. Is it inevitable that the instrument will get tighter feeling due to a more acute angle across the bridge causing more pressure on the top? Can the neck angle be reduced to counter this?

I'm also concerned with the sound of the instrument after the reset. Might it change? Any generalizations here? I really like the way the bass sounds now, it's on the dark side with a nice fat G string.

Anything else I'm missing? Any comments, especially from luthiers who have a lot of experience with this will be appreciated!

You have two Basses listed (circa 1895 Bohemian bass, 1955 Juzek labeled bass). Which Bass is it that has the problem?

The standard desired Neckstand from what I have seen is about 35-40mm. Yours at 3/4" is only about 19mm which is about half. I have had Basses lower than that but when corrected and moved out, were much easier to play and Bow especially with a higher Bridge which helps to clear the C-Bouts when bowing. A higher Bridge can also improve the volume and tone of your Bass.

My English Mystery Bass is getting its new Neck soon and last week we took some measurements. We will go for a 7" tall Bridge with the Strings at 4-5mm at the G so it will be no lower than that. With the upper Bouts being 22" wide and the middle almost 16" we (Biase and I) measured it at close to 1 3/4" or so to go over 40mm. This way the angle will not be too steep and will be easy to get over the Shoulders easier. This is a big/long Bass and will sit high on the body even with the Endpin pushed in all the way. The Neck needs to be out a bit so I can get over the shoulders. Although this is an Orchestral Bass being way too big for playing solos I still see parts taking me way up into thumb position. Even Beethoven's 5th takes you up to high C so it might as well be easy to play up there as well. We used a large 7/8ths Guadagnini Bass almost as big as my Bass that had a 7" Bridge on it to compare Neckstand and angle pitch. The Guad had slightly more arch in the Top but my Bouts were wider. This helped us to make good guesses as to what will work best.

Playability is the Key. More angle on the break points might mean more tension on the Top. The Luthier will have to figure that in when setting the Neck because its not just the amount of Neckstand but the pitch angle combined as well.

I think that 6" is a minimum for Bridge height to Bow a Bass unless its a small instrument. Take the Bass to the best Bass set-up Luthier in your area. I travel about 3 hours/160 miles each way to get my work done with the exception of the Mystery bass in NYC which is just under 100 miles or so. Go to the place that is best for your Bass and get it done right the first time.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

Seven times out of ten when I hear the phrase "tight-feeling bass", the problem is excessive camber in the fingerboard/neck.

[Ken Smith]

Seven times out of ten when I hear the phrase "tight-feeling bass", the problem is excessive camber in the fingerboard/neck.

Ah haa!! ..;)

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(waiter) Sir, is there something wrong with the soup?:confused:

c) Would you just taste the soup?:(

w) Sir, is there something IN the soup?:confused:

c) WOULD YOU JUST TASTE THE SOUP???:mad:

w).. OK, ok.. Where's the Spoon?:confused::o:eek:

c).. Achh Haaa..!! Achh Haaa!!:rolleyes:

[Matthew Tucker]

Is it inevitable that the instrument will get tighter feeling due to a more acute angle across the bridge causing more pressure on the top?

All things remaining the same, increasing the overstand will DECREASE the angle over the bridge very slightly :)

Tightness can be treated a number of ways ...

[Eric Hochberg]

You have two Basses listed (circa 1895 Bohemian bass, 1955 Juzek labeled bass). Which Bass is it that has the problem?

It's the older Bohemian labeled one.

[Eric Hochberg]

Seven times out of ten when I hear the phrase "tight-feeling bass", the problem is excessive camber in the fingerboard/neck.

Now that you mention it, this bass' fingerboard seems to have a bit more camber than my other bass that I've been playing for 30 years before I got this one two years ago.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

How thick is the fingerboard? Please measure on both edges, at both the nut and where it leaves the wood of the neck. I think I'd start with a fingerboard regraduation if there is enough wood left. That said, the overstand and bridge are definately low for modern playing. Does your bow smack the c-bouts when you play the outer strings? If so, forget what I just said, and get your neck reset.

[Eric Hochberg]

How thick is the fingerboard? Please measure on both edges, at both the nut and where it leaves the wood of the neck. I think I'd start with a fingerboard regraduation if there is enough wood left. That said, the overstand and bridge are definately low for modern playing. Does your bow smack the c-bouts when you play the outer strings? If so, forget what I just said, and get your neck reset.

The fingerboard is 5/16 at the nut on both the E and G side and 11/32 (E side) and 7/32 (G side) where the board leaves the neck. This board has a bit more scoop than I'm used to making it more taxing to play.

The bow hasn't been a problem but the neck being as close to the body as it is and the low bridge changes my hand positions relative to the bass from what I'm used to, making me change my technique to compensate which I don't want to do anymore.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

I think I would not put money into that fingerboard, but save some cash and eventually reset the neck, replace the fingerboard and bridge. Then you'll have a bass that plays great (providing the work is done well).

[Eric Hochberg]

Thanks, Arnold, Ken, and everyone who responded. When I get the work done, I'll let you know how it turns out. :)

[Ken Smith]

I think I would not put money into that fingerboard, but save some cash and eventually reset the neck, replace the fingerboard and bridge. Then you'll have a bass that plays great (providing the work is done well).

Ditto on all the above. That FB is thin already. It is best to get everything right before you make adjustments. Even with getting an Ext. it is often best to put a 'full meat' thickness FB on to insure you don't have to do it later and then re-fit or replace the Ext.

Do it once and do it right. It's cheaper in the long run and I say that from experience.

[Eric Hochberg]

Do it once and do it right. It's cheaper in the long run and I say that from experience.

Absolutely correct. I already spent money regluing the old board and having the bridge recut and fitted when I got the bass. At the time, I thought I might get away without the major work being done, but it hasn't worked out that way.

[Eric Hochberg]

I think I would not put money into that fingerboard, but save some cash and eventually reset the neck, replace the fingerboard and bridge. Then you'll have a bass that plays great (providing the work is done well).

So, I finally went ahead and had a new board put on and a new bridge made. The bridge height is now around 6.25". Arnold and Ken, you were correct. The bass is now playing much easier. Less scoop means much less work for my left hand and the feel of jazz pizz has loosened up quite a bit so my right hand is much happier. I've played a weeks worth of gigs on it now and so far, it's working for me without the hand and arm stress I was experiencing before.

The bass still sounds very good, but a little brighter than before. I was expecting the opposite with the heavier fingerboard added.

Still considering bringing the neck out, but will give this some more time.

Thanks!!! :)