lol
 

I know, but in NY, things can get tough at night.. :eek:

This was Brutal hijacking of my thread Lol ;)

....
 

You want it all deleted? You know, once you get Wayne in here, anything can happen. It's your thread. Just say the word.

No that's ok, its not that bad... I got nothing new anyways :D

The tool and the Cleat...
 

Well as Arnold suggested I am going to be using Diamond Cleats, the cleats are about 1" each side and 1/8" thick and also with the grain running about 45 degrees ...

I am using this time an bigger chisel as Mathew suggested, he say that it will be more fun this way :)

I am going to be making few deep throat C clamps... as per Wayne Advise to use the right tool for the job (no lipstick sorry)

and Taking all apart and do it again as Ken also recommend for me to do



http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...6/100_4414.jpg


after making the clamps I am going to laid down the cleats but before I will send and picture for everybody to see what is going to be my plan :D

Ha! And get that chisel sharpened ;)

lol...
 

You can start that thread! :eek:

Tell me about it ... just spent three hours with 80 grit trying to undo the damage I did to the back of a pristine HSS plane blade by putting it down, freshly lapped, on my bench overnight. If anything defines "the pits", that does :(

Chisel Sharpened...???
 

No no nooooo!!!.... I am good in that department, It doesn,t really show in the picture but that chisel its very sharp, I did spend yesterday more than an hour sharpening that chisel its deadly sharp


I start by flatting with 80 grip sand paper on a granite stone, then I move to 320g sand paper, and so on…
Then I use my Veritas honing jig and register jig (Amazing little tool) for the bevel a 25 degrees again 80G, 320G, and tree diamond stones 320, 600, 1000. After that I use and 2000G sand paper and finally a leather belt for mirror finish…. When I done I do a 30 Degrees micro bevel… and I use the back on my The thumb nail to make sure its sharp…

Also while I am working I am make sure stay sharp… by honing it with my leather belt… those chisels my be not the best chisels out there but they hold the bevel sharp as long I don’t mess with too much H. glue or little metal wires like the ones that I found on some of the patches in my DB

PS it doesn’t give me you a lot of room for accidents

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...a26/myhand.jpg

PS how the cleat is looking it is fine????

Hi Wayne I guess the traditional way is chisel out the Cleat after Gluing… I don’t think that sanding before gluing it’s a bad idea… for now I am sticking to what I have seem (don’t want to be very creative).. I am going to tape around the cleats for sure, don’t want to nick the top… to be honest I did make few nicks the first time

The hand its fine, it was a 10mm wound and it hit the bone.. Lots of blood and all that, I lost some tactile sensation on the skin of my finger, I got a none feeling in a good part of that finger right after the accident, like local local anesthesia feeling… I was tacking down the cleats and old hide glue from the top with the small chisel and guess what! my hand was on the way… and the chisel slipped….. Boom… work time was over

Now I am very careful and aware where my fingers are all the time…

I guess I saw your microbevel and thought it was a burr ...

i think you'll find that no amount of tape will save the top from a sharp chisel.

Better to be careful and use a slicing movement in an upward directon. You'll work it out. Your cleat looks fine to me.

I hate to derail the thread any further, but -

If you are stropping your chisels, the microbevels probably aren't worth the effort - but I haven't tried both (together) either. It just seems a bit counterintuitive (to me) to put a tiny little bevel on a blade and then polish it on a soft surface. But hey - whatever works! ;)

the cleat looks fine , but as we've come to realize ....

'' one mans cleat is another mans poison '' :o:)

I though so too, In fact I did post a little thread about it in TB... and every one seems to agree that micro bevel was the way to go...I just make sure the are sharp one of my test is to shave few hairs of my arm, stroke a piece of paper on the edge with the chisel(this is a hard one to pass Lol).... if I only have learned something working with wood is that if your tools aren't sharp you are not going to go far....

I got a good camera but not as good as yours I can really get cl ose details as your pictures... I guess you are into Photography too hum?

Tape, I did save the top from few nicks last time, but u are right no tape is going to offer 100% against a sharp chisel, that is for sure.

last but not least... yes I saw ur video shaving those cleats, u are using a totally different technique as I did, I was using downward force (not a great idea), u also cut with the flat part I was using the bevel part... the cleats closed to the bass bar are specially hard to shape (keep posting your restoration project it really helps a lot and more videos if thats posible :))

That's right :D

Before??
 

Wayne, how can you get even clamp pressure if the Cleats are already beveled?

Also, isn't it easier to Bevel/shape them AFTER the are glued down to something?

Wayne whatever works for you is fine. Your descriptions are detailed, but I'd love if you would share some pics of your work.

Wayne, it's better if you work out a way to resize them yourself, or even easier you open a free flickr or photobucket account and upload them there, then link to them. Its easy and you retain control of the pics. And you can use them on your own website if you want.

Alternatively you could take a sander to the photos and get the size down that way! ;)