Beautiful work-I'm always impressed when the hidden work is done with as much care as the visible.
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Very true. the back is rarely removed so perhaps there is another reason. I must have been on autopilot when writing that post! But there is no easily apparent worm or rot damage on the corresponding corner block. And I don't recall being too gung-ho im my removal of the back, either. So, cause uncertain.
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Any progress?
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nope. too busy with other things. Back is getting flatter and workshop backlog is clearing though ...
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Not a huge progress but I think I had better feed you a little more anyway ...
After lot of patience the back is flat enough to deal with. I don't have a shooting board four feet long so I improvise one on the benchtop. That's a #6 Stanley sliding on a waxed laminex benchtop. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7259/7...4e1ece8c1b.jpg The centre joint is dirty to the core so I have to plane back to clean wood. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6...9e77d0db3a.jpg its nice putting the halves together like this because I can see how the two pieces are only a sawblade's width apart from the same plank. At least. i think i can see this. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7091/7...897909d5fd.jpg I'll have to chalk fit the centre joint i think. The Stanley is good for getting a nice flat joint and the Veritas low angle bock plane will help me smooth any ripples. |
Matthew,will you be installing a strip in the center to make up for lost wood due to planing and shrinkage? Looking good, by the way.
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Possibly. I haven't had to plane much off, just carefully skimming the surface so far. I plan to do a test fit with the rib garland and see. I'd rather not if I can get away with it.
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Well I did a test fit and although i think i could get away with no centre strip, I think I'll make life easier for myself and give my self 2-3mm back.
Dang ... which means I have to make an aesthetic choice of what to use down the centre of this highly flamed back! |
A very dark hardwood, like rosewood, walnut or ebony, so as not to detract from the flame?
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I'm looking sideways at a nice sliver of very dark zebrawood right now. You can hardly see the brown/black striping, but it is there.
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Personally, I don't think dimensional stability on a 2mm wide piece of whatever is anywhere near as important as the dimensional stability of the 14" wide pieces of maple its glued to! Even if it is (properly seasoned) wood that shrinks and expands more than maple, it is only a very small percentage of its own dimension, and a small percentage of 2mm is a tiny fraction of a small percentage of the maple, if you see what i mean. And the long-ways shrinkage is insignificant. I'm more concerned about it "taking" hide glue but I haven't yet met a wood that can't be glued with hide glue very well. I'm sure they exist but i haven't found it yet.
I have not personally seen the need to de-resin (or de-oil!) ebony before gluing. And none of my fingerboards have fallen off yet. The only problem *I* have with purpleheart is the revolting colour. How anyone can love it, is beyond me :-) |
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All good points Ken.
On the other hand, a fingerboard is a much bigger chunk of ebony, glued to a smaller chunk of maple. So the movement is going to be more significant there. |
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Don't worry Ken. I'm planning to!
And May the Fourth be with you. |
Well, Matthew, I had missed almost all of this great thread, so I have spent the time to sit and read through every post. Very engaging, fascinating stuff.
I'm looking forward to seeing the final product. I hope to begin another bass this month, but there have been a number of developments lately that might make me postpone again. (Sure hope not-- it has been five years sunce I finished the last one...) Press on, my friend! Chet Bishop |
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