Thread: Endpin talk...
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Old 08-14-2007, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Smith View Post
David, with your 2-height needs for Pizz and Bowing I would pull it out to the tallest size you would ever use sitting or standing, leave enough length to just clear the socket internally and cut off the rest of the excess Rod length. The Bass is heavy enough as it is..
For arco I need it higher and I think that is where it is going to stay. I've been playing more and more arco, even on the jazz standards so I'm getting used to the higher position for pizz also. You are right about the heavy factor of my bass. It weighs 31+ pounds! Fortunately I don't have to strap it over my shoulder and I have some wheels for carting it further than from house to car. I could cut a good bit off it and still have plenty of pin. I might just try one of the wooden ones to see how it works. I'm not a Laborie fan even though I'm using the Rabbath method. I played on a bass with one and it is not for me, and I do think it is not good to have that arrangement in a vertical standing position. It does seem to me that the block is bearing a torque in that case and the blocks generally have trouble holding a normal pin straight. I could see using a Laborie for playing sitting.

Oh, and thanks for the correct "Hamm" It was the bass for Karr that had a different anchor for the tailgut. I remember that pretty specifically unless I am completely hallucinating;- which would be rare.

Brian, I'll take your word for it that it makes a big difference between the wood and CF. There are many things that make a difference that are not intuitive. Is the rubber tip hard rubber or pretty soft? The tip on mine is sort of medium hard. I kind of liked what the KC strings fellows were doing, but it is really a kind of combination wood and CF pin. Probably a bit different from a solid wooden pin.
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