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Old 11-01-2008, 12:55 AM
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Ken Smith Ken Smith is offline
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Join Date: 01-18-2007
Location: Perkasie, PA
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Lightbulb Todays visit - Update..

I drove into NYC today for some other unrelated Bass biz but while I was there we went over some final details.

The Scroll is now grafted to the Neck and the Neck is glued in the Block with a nice Ebony Fingerboard on it. The Neck itself is not yet shaped and nor is the Fingerboard done. These are the areas we went over as far as the width at the Nut and ends of Neck at the Block along with the desired string spacing centers at both the Nut and Bridge. These factors combined will help to create the Neck/Fingerboard Taper.

Now for a few 'cool' details. This Bass is big and WIDE. The Bass Bar is set in a bit but that is because if it wasn't we would have to make or buy a custom Bridge. A normal 3/4 Bridge is about 150-155mm wide measuring the outer most part of the Feet. Bridges for bigger Basses from 7/8 to 4/4 or so measure about 160-165mm. The Bridge that came with the Bass which is about 50 years old or so is 170mm wide. If the Bar was pushed to its furthest point of the upper F-hole Eye it would require a 190mm Bridge to match the width of the upper Eyes. We will use the existing 'old' wide Bridge with regular aluminum adjusters which I happened to have cut and tapped the feet myself about 2 years ago as a test before doing my first actual adjuster job for one of the Corsini's I had back in 2006. Turns out I did just fine the first time because Biase said my test piece was usable as-is. I didn't think the old Bridge was usable anymore but it fits just fine.

The Gears to be used are English Baker copies made some 20 years ago or so by "Fawcett", the same guy that made the English mechanical C-Extensions. Biase just happened to have a set of these lying around for a special occasion. I am more than happy that my Bass qualified and will get that set which is in the process of being fit.

The Tailpiece as mentioned awhile back will be the 3-string stained Maple TP that was modified with 2 additional holes when it was converted to a 4-string Bass.

The End Pin will just have an Ebony socket and a short Peg maybe only 3" tall that I whittled myself recently with just a rubber tip at the bottom. If need be, I will make another one with a spike for non-slip needs. I can also make other lengths if needed. Down the road after breaking in this Bass I can also change the entire system to the modern Carbon Fiber unit if necessary. The Peg I'm using was originally made for the Mougenot Bass I bought recently as a test idea. That Bass had an endpin system already so I decided to put the Peg where it's needed most.

Besides using either older or traditional components, the Bass even after its restoration still retains the Bassbar and X-Brace system from the 19th century. This Bass from what I can see has never seen a steel string. Rather than get overly busy fixing what ain't yet broke, I thought it best to give it a chance with its short & low inset 3-string Bassbar and x-brace while it breaks in and makes its first musical Bass sound since most reading this post were born.. lol

The x-brace is the 3rd bar system this Bass has had. Scars from the original 'Bars and secondary lower Bar is still visible. I think some of this work was previously done for experimental purposes as the early damage to the Back is at a minimum.

All 4 corner blocks are still original. The Bottom Block might be as well. The Neck Block looks to be its first 'real' Block because it appears that this Bass was most probably born 'Blockless'! The 'first Block' was cut at the top for the deeper Neck-set and the Block beefed up lower down to add support. This same technique was done on my Hart Bass which Block was original but needed some 'beef' added as well.

Today I measured on the blank unfinished Fingerboard where the octave 'G' is with a bit of Rosin. The Bass will be 42" mensur so I marked it at 21", half way. Then I bowed the Bass at the edge of the Fingerboard while playing imaginary scales, arpeggios, excerpts and some doodlin' as well. The G was just about where I want it. The Neck-stand which I also discussed awhile ago is 'out there' at 48mm. Most of my Basses average from 32-36mm so this one is almost 1/2" further out. With these bigger, broader and wider shoulders, any help that can be done with the Neck-set is really needed. The Bass feels easy to play and get around but mind you, I was only playing on air!

Being that I have never played or even heard this Bass, we are doing things on the 'basic' in a few places as mentioned above. It would not be a surprise to me one bit if one or more things had to be re-done in the first few years including pulling off the Top again if further internal work is needed. This is partially because it is just now getting converted to a modern steel string Bass from Guts and has the internal structure partially of a Gut 3-Sting Bass. Being olde English I would venture to say it was first tuned G, D, A (high to low) which was the tuning in fourths that was used in England back then.

As of now, I hope to be playing this Bass before Christmas or shortly thereafter. If it sounds and plays like I expect it to, I will have a C-Extension made for it sooner than later..