Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Linz
Ok, Arnold wins. The Ouiga Board thing made me " almost " piss my pants. I want to buy one of his basses just based on this comment. Thanks for keeping it light and positive Arnold. The bass is hard enough already. Much thanks for the laugh.
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I suggest that with what ever you know about this Top and its condition you make a judgment call if it's weak or strong and see if it's high or low arched.
Then, put the Bar in big and long. Then trim it back little by little. Slight angle to the grain fanning to the outer lower bout and also plan and measure out the Bridge size and placement. Not all Bar's need to be up against the Fs upper Eyes. Measure their distance across the Eyes first and make sure IF wide, you put it in a little so you can find a bridge that is not too narrow. 150-160mm is the average. Finding a good blank over 165mm is difficult. The Leg, not outer foot should be centered over the bar.
You can take the top off later and trim the bar down if need be. You cant add the wood back so a heavier Bar will just take longer to break in. If too heavy after a year or two, then it can be trimmed down. Give it time as it has to break in. In my experience I would say a 2 year minimum before making judgment after a big restoration. The NEW wood has to settle in.
I have some pics on my website of the
Gilkes and
Prescott inside with Bar pics and shapes. The Gilkes is a full 3/4 or so and the Prescott more of a 4/4 size. I did have a small, thin, short bar in my big Gamba English bass and we left that in. The Top was perfect so why change it. If later the Top sags, a bigger/longer Bar can be put in. For now, the sound and arch is great, no complaints. The Gilkes Bar was put in by Arnold. The Prescott looks to be its secondary Bar and very old. Arnold did trim it slightly but there was no need to replace it.
