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Old 11-13-2008, 10:04 AM
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Ken Smith Ken Smith is offline
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Join Date: 01-18-2007
Location: Perkasie, PA
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Cool Juzek SB236?

Hi Genna (or is it Evelyn? Two first names? Hummm?) and welcome..

I read this over on TB yesterday and today. I can view there but I can't post or message. I read that you think it is a Laminated Bass. The pictures you posted are not clear or close-up enough to tell that. Even Laminates can have normal type graining on the outer layer. The best way is a close-up of the edges on the Top and Back, individually. The F-pic you took doesn't help because it is painted black, sorry!

On the extra label "Juzek SB236", it sounds like a store label added to the Bass. I think I remember about 4 models give or take, and that is c.1965 I am referring to. The first being a laminated Bass, the second a basic carved Bass (no hybrid then) and the last the Master Art. There were a few models in between but only a 1965 catalog would clear things up for me. That would be at MetMusic in Vermont in the possession on Bobby or Robbie Juzek (John's nephew and his son).

The Laminated Bass in 1965/6 was $150. I had worked that summer and saved up just about $200. My teacher in M.B. Florida told me NOT to get that model but to get the carved model which was $200. Well, with the cover, Bow, tax etc I just couldn't swing it. Actually, it was about another year before I could swing it because Jazz was not on my menu yet.. lol..

Ok, back on track here, jokes aside.. I bought the Laminate with a Bow, rosin, rubber stop, music stand and a tuning fork and it was about $191.xx? or so. Guess what? I STILL have the Tuning Fork.

I don't know exactly what a 1/2 Bass like this is worth now but probably it is best judged AFTER it is in tip-top playing condition. This goes for any Bass really, 1/2, 3/4, 4/4.. all of them. Buying any Bass even new, one must look at the cost of making it as playable as possible. I have even seen new Fingerboards needed for a new Bass yet alone an old one which is more often than not. For me, solid condition of the Bass, good Fingerboard, Bridge and all the fittings including strings make a saleable Bass out the door. If not, one must estimate the value of the Bass and then deduct for each item that is not up to par.

I have a recent made English Bass and as a Player, I am the first owner. The maker I believe made it as a copy of his personal old Bass but had to sell it for finance reasons. This Bass needs a fingerboard, Bridge and Strings, out of the case when I got it. The wood used for the Fingerboard is second grade and buzzing. By the time I get it working, it will be thinner than I like. Then, when it buzzes again from its 2nd grade quality, it will need more work. Might as well fix it sooner than later.

This is just one personal example I am giving. Usually, I would suggest one does what I would do because I like my Bass in the best possible condition all the time. The cost for a new Fingerboard, Bridge and Strings is in the $2k range or so PLUS, it needed a new Soundpost which Arnold did already. On a carved Bass, a poorly fit, oversized or short soundpost will not only hurt the sound, it can hurt or crack the Bass in time.

On a Bass like this, $2k is a smaller fraction of the cost/value than on a Bass like you've described. More often than not, Basses come up for sale that need more work than the Bass is worth. This is called 'negative value'. Do not settle for a Bass that is less than 'good' in the playable department. There are many choices and this factory Bass is nothing to loose sleep over. Have it checked out by an independent professional Bass Luthier that will look at the areas mentioned.

I don't know what type of playing you plan on doing or what size Bass you think would fit for it but the 3/4 size is the industry standard for the average person.
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