Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruben E garcia
I am thinking on doing the bass bar… it got crack at both ends it doesn’t look like its growing or its open… but it if recommended, may as well get it done now….
Well now seems like it’s a tough job… some people prefer to avoid to change the BB unless its 100% necessary… I can’t really tell if it need to be replace, because it’s too old or stiff… It does have a crack… that’s a bad sign…
Now stupid question… can it be shorten a little and inlay patch the ends??? Or it will be an abomination of my sick mind??? 
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The bass is apart and will be edges as necessary to fit back when done. You do NOT want to take it apart again if after you string up the bass and the weakest area not the Old Bar splits more.
Carve out the bar and clean the bass since you might re-shape the top or not.
You have the best view of that. Then repair the crack 100% after shaping top and then cleat it on top of the wood
after fitting the bar along that surface but
don't glue in bar. Then notch the fitted bar to go
over the cleats and glue it down. Do
not inlay the cleats as that will weaken the top. Everything should fit 100% with
just finger pressure, no force. Then clamp to make a life long glue joint. All excess glue not needed will squeeze out. Don't be so scientific with the amount of glue.
The grain of the wood, especially the end grain by far will suck in some glue. What it doesn't need, it spits out. One time a saddle lifted on me after a repair. The Block was new, sucked in a lot of glue and the ebony came loose from the tail wire pulling it. Re-gluing fixed it as I did it myself in my shop. That, I had time and tools for. The restoration I didn't..
