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Old 02-14-2011, 03:13 PM
Ruben E garcia Ruben E garcia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Smith View Post
The bass is apart and will be edges as necessary to fit back when done. You do NOT want to take it apart again if after you string up the bass and the weakest area not the Old Bar splits more.

Carve out the bar and clean the bass since you might re-shape the top or not. You have the best view of that. Then repair the crack 100% after shaping top and then cleat it on top of the wood after fitting the bar along that surface but don't glue in bar. Then notch the fitted bar to go over the cleats and glue it down. Do not inlay the cleats as that will weaken the top. Everything should fit 100% with just finger pressure, no force. Then clamp to make a life long glue joint. All excess glue not needed will squeeze out. Don't be so scientific with the amount of glue.

The grain of the wood, especially the end grain by far will suck in some glue. What it doesn't need, it spits out. One time a saddle lifted on me after a repair. The Block was new, sucked in a lot of glue and the ebony came loose from the tail wire pulling it. Re-gluing fixed it as I did it myself in my shop. That, I had time and tools for. The restoration I didn't..

Thank you Ken for the detail explanation I was thinking on inlay patch bellow the BB (worng), I need to read about a little more about the BB replacement, So I am looking at SP patch, bass bar, block edges and Edges repair, ah and also cleats… I am going to be busy for a while

Ps I will let you guys know my plan in advantage just to be sure that I am in the right path
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