Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Miller
Thank you for the info. It's all very helpful and eye opening.
I think I'm going to get it in to the luthier soon just to have it checked out. It was on consignment when I bought it... The shop I go to is family run; good people. I find it hard to believe that they'd sell a bass without informing the buyer of the potential work it might need... I wouldn't expect them to open it up, but at least look for anything that might need work.
When I get it in I'll ask if they know of any repair work that's been done.. if anything they'd probably have made the repairs.
All that aside...
The string length is in the 43.5 range. It was quite an adjustment to get used to , but now that I am, it's like anything else. It's also got a D neck.
I've been toying with the idea of looking for a smaller lighter/more durable bass to add to the collection. Maybe an upton Hybrid or something. This weekend was the first time really traveling with this bass and it was less than enjoyable. Between wincing through every bump on the highway and moving its hugeness around it made for a few stressful moments!
Again thank you for the info, always awesome to learn about a different side of the instrument
Do you know of any books that talk about the history/ different schools of bass making? I'd love to learn more about the nuances of the different bass luthiers around the world.
Best,
Simon
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First, shops often sell basses that that need work and don't tell the buyer. That is how they stay in business. It's worse than the used car business and unregulated. Will they say it needs $10k of work if you need it in perfect condition? No, they wont. Most older factory basses need plenty of work if you want them to hold their real value and be suitable for today's playing. Many of them cost more to fix than they are worth.
Today, anything over 42" string length is risky business and usually worth less money. I have had many basses that were longer and knew it when I bought them but had room in the price to shorten the length down to 42" or less. Only one bass was left longer because we didn't do a neck graft. That one went from 43 1/2" down to 42 3/8ths with a block cut, neck re-set and bridge cheat. Other basses had similar work but a new shorter neck grafted to get the length down. 4/4 basses like this are very hard to sell. I know they didn't tell you that. You will find out later if you try selling it.
On schools of basses, there is very little written on the subject. I have probably published more here on-line than is printed in books. Violin books focus on violins mainly with a bit on violas and cellos as needed and occasionally on basses. The 20th century factory basses and brands are more anonymous and are not in any books as most books were written 50 years ago or more and the brands made by what shops are kept secret for the most part. Also, there is no profit in publishing such a book. You might sell a few hundred copies in a few years but if done right and with pictures, it would be too expensive for most. The only bass book published on general schools is the Elgar book and some of that information is wrong as far as the makers of the basses shown. I know some of those basses and have had the books since high school. I know a lot more now than I knew then.