Quote:
Originally Posted by Fernando González
Thanks Ken!!!
What is about shorten the string lengt one or two cm? Probably moving the bridge could be enough.
Here in Spain you can´t see a lot of good basses. I mean REALLY good basses, so I´ll to learn to identify then by photos or books. I´m very interested on it.
Sometime I read in double bassist that a good orquestra brought good basses for the players. In Spain most orquestras have new instruments, Poellmann, Nogaro, Gruenert and so, but never you can see an old italian bass.
Regards,
Fernando.
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First off, how about finding an old Spanish Bass? Not all of them are Guitar shaped but even if they are, if it sounds good, play it.
One reason for the lack of Basses is that either people took them out already and bought them years ago or people didn't go get them and buy them like many dealers did here in USA in the last 50 years.
On the shortening problem just looking at your Bass doesn't give me all the measurements I would use to plan that out. If the Top is healthy with no sinkage near the Bridge feet and you have some room like you do from the feet to the upper F-eyes then try just moving the Bridge up along with the soundpost in proportion and see how the mensur is then.
Is the Neck a D or Eb at the heel? How long from the Nut to the Neck touching the Block? How long from the end of the Neck at the Block measuring on the Top to the top of the bridge foot? How far out from the Top is the underside of the Fingerboard (aka Neckstand)? What is the exact string length now?
Basically, give me/us a Map of measurements of your Bass concerning the Length so good advice can be given.
A False Nut can be a good fix or a bad fix. This depends on the note-stop you have at the Heel and where you reach the F# as well. You should be able to reach for the F# with your 4th finger while your thumb is still on the Heel and your hand can touch the shoulder, not reaching over it. If not, it is too far away. A False Nut pushes the notes further towards the Bridge. Moving the Bridge up moves the notes closer to the Nut.
Also, concerning the Neckstand, it would be good to know what your string heights are and how tall your Bridge is in the center off the Top at those heights. Often, a corrected Neck stand can make a huge difference. I witnessed this personally with my Gilkes. It's barely a 41" mensur (depends on the tilt of the Bridge and feet, could go a tad shorter) with a proud D-Neck. The overstand (neckstand) was very low/shallow before it was restored by Arnold/AES. When I would try to play the harmonics over the Bridge on the Dragonetti, I was up on my toes and I'm 6ft tall with fairly long arms. The 8" Ribs (7 1/2" at the Neck) don't help much either but that's the Bass. The Neckstand can be moved and improved for playability.
Here's some pics of the before and after. The Neck before was out only about 13mm from the Top if I recall correctly. Now it's about 35mm or so. Please excuse the poor views as the shots were not taken to show the neckstand (distance from the Top).
For a bass to play its best, everything about it need to be just right! The Gilkes went from one of the hardest Basses to get around to my favorite go-to Bass when I have something difficult so play. We call that a 360, a complete turn-a-round.