Bridge Adjustment on New Bass

[Calvin Marks]

I just acquired a wonderful travel bass which will make life a lot easier for certain types of gigs. The only issue is, the bass came with a terrible bridge and the string heights are all out of whack. I don't have the cash quite yet to get a new bridge made so I will need to do a temporary job to fix the string heights.

My question is: Should the contour of the end of the fingerboard match the curvature of the top of the bridge?

I just filed down the bridge grooves so that the string heights are:

I - 5mm
II- 7mm
III- 9mm
IV- 11mm

This feels wonderful under my left hand but my bow is still hitting multiple strings at once while bowing. Ie. The D string hits the G and A, and the A string hits the D with the bow.

How can I correct this?


Thanks!

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

I just acquired a wonderful travel bass which will make life a lot easier for certain types of gigs. The only issue is, the bass came with a terrible bridge and the string heights are all out of whack. I don't have the cash quite yet to get a new bridge made so I will need to do a temporary job to fix the string heights.

My question is: Should the contour of the end of the fingerboard match the curvature of the top of the bridge?

I just filed down the bridge grooves so that the string heights are:

I - 5mm
II- 7mm
III- 9mm
IV- 11mm

This feels wonderful under my left hand but my bow is still hitting multiple strings at once while bowing. Ie. The D string hits the G and A, and the A string hits the D with the bow.

How can I correct this?


Thanks!

I like about 6-7mm or so clearance every other string at the bridge for French bow and slightly more for German. String heights as mentioned only work if the fingerboard has a proper curve. Sound like this board is too flat or just way off in some way. I can't see it from here so it's a guess. What is not a guess is the fact that your bridge needs a proper curve first. Getting the right string heights you like depends mainly on the fingerboard if bowing is involved.



Your heights are 2mm graduated. Mine are 1-1.5mm from G to E. The Fingerboard curve and dressing makes a world of difference. A bridge is easy to correct, shim or even change. A fingerboard way more work and expense.

Perhaps in the future you will look for these things when buying a bass. The bridge may be the least of your problem here.

[Calvin Marks]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

Perhaps in the future you will look for these things when buying a bass. The bridge may be the least of your problem here.

The bass is in flawless condition, I had it checked out by multiple luthiers. The only issue is the bridge as it was used by a jazz bassist who used a very flat arch as he didn't bow.

Thank you kindly for the information.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

The bass is in flawless condition, I had it checked out by multiple luthiers. The only issue is the bridge as it was used by a jazz bassist who used a very flat arch as he didn't bow.

Thank you kindly for the information.

If I had a Dollar (US or CAN.. lol) for every Bass that a 'Luthier' sold, set-up or approved with a fingerboard-to-bridge ratio/set-up that was not up to my expectations, I would be opening another bank account to put the money in. The other account is getting kind fo full at the moment..

[Calvin Marks]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

If I had a Dollar (US or CAN.. lol) for every Bass that a 'Luthier' sold, set-up or approved with a fingerboard-to-bridge ratio/set-up that was not up to my expectations, I would be opening another bank account to put the money in. The other account is getting kind fo full at the moment..

I hear you but I know nothing about these types of things. The best I can do is bring the instrument to a reputable person and ask for their experience. I always play an instrument at the shop after work as been done so if there needs to be some tweeking it can be done right then.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

I hear you but I know nothing about these types of things. The best I can do is bring the instrument to a reputable person and ask for their experience. I always play an instrument at the shop after work as been done so if there needs to be some tweeking it can be done right then.

Calvin, you NEED to know these things. The Luthier is NOT going to be playing YOUR bass on YOUR Gig, YOU ARE! You MUST be responsible for what you need in a bass set-up. Know this before you walk out the door with any bass.

Set-up is so personal that a Luthier no mater how good and no matter how much information I give him about what I like and want it still needs to be tweaked in the end. Luckily enough I can do some of this myself and explain the rest of it on the spot to get it corrected.

I was not born with this. I learned it along the way. Do not turn a deaf ear on your needs and abilities to communicate them because the other guy is 'the Luthier'. Learn all you can about what you want and need and know what it looks like, feels like and measures like.

Behind my back and in private you are welcome to discuss all of what I just said with Arnold and Jeff. They know me pretty well in this way.

[Matthew Tucker]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

My question is: Should the contour of the end of the fingerboard match the curvature of the top of the bridge?

No, the shape of the top of the bridge is determined significantly by the curvature of the fingerboard.

To give your bow clearance so that you can easily bow one string at a time the bridge needs to be quite highly arched.

But if your fingerboard is too flat, then shaping the top of the bridge nice and high in the middle to help your bowing won't help, because your A and D strings will be way off the fingerboard and hard to play.

So yes. What Pino (and Ken) said. Start with a FB shaping.