Would you change a Smith?

[Michael Wilson]

I would love to see a comeback of the older big black headstock. Maybe just a limited edition model/w the stacked 3 knob controls. That would be nice.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Michael Wilson

I would love to see a comeback of the older big black headstock. Maybe just a limited edition model/w the stacked 3 knob controls. That would be nice.

The big headstock is available by request for an extra charge as we do it by hand.

The 3 knob must be put into 3 of the 5 holes we use now so that when you realize the BMT model is a better circuit, you can upgrade it. The old BT 3 knob route was not upgradable.

We can do it.

[Michael Wilson]

Well ok then, now that i have it on paper here is going to be my next Smith order NEXT MONTH

1. CR5
2. Flame Maple T&B
3.Mah core
4. Ebony fretboard
5. Big black headstock
6. Gold Hardware
7. Lefty/Str Righty
8. 18 volt pre/BMT

Ken, please give me the cost and how long of a waiting period.

Mike

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Michael Wilson

Well ok then, now that i have it on paper here is going to be my next Smith order NEXT MONTH

1. CR5
2. Flame Maple T&B
3.Mah core
4. Ebony fretboard
5. Big black headstock
6. Gold Hardware
7. Lefty/Str Righty
8. 18 volt pre/BMT

Ken, please give me the cost and how long of a waiting period.

Mike

This is regular business. Please email me at the shop. I can give you cost and eta then.

This is almost a standard bass for us with the custom old head. The old heads all had black Phenolic overlays, not wood. Even on the early BMTs. The current way would be to use actual Ebony on the head for the black.

[Tim Bishop]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

The big headstock is available by request for an extra charge as we do it by hand.

The 3 knob must be put into 3 of the 5 holes we use now so that when you realize the BMT model is a better circuit, you can upgrade it. The old BT 3 knob route was not upgradable.

We can do it.

+1 Ken. The midrange circuit is key in the mix for any bass.

[David Alan McIntire II]

I'm glad to see this thread go this way, one of the main questions I have is concerning upgrading my '95 three band circuit to the new, 18v pre amp. Problem is that I really like the sound of this bass and not sure of the new preamp's sound in comparison. Probably not a ton of difference, and gotta say the new one's design intriguing, with the dip switces and all. I'm assuming a bit more output with the new one, but I'd rather not assume. in fact, don't even know if upgrading mine possible, but that why I'm here. Any here have experience with New vs. Old circuit?

[Tim Bishop]

If you have the 3 band (i.e. Bass, Mid-range, and Treble) pre-amp, you're good. I wouldn't change a thing unless there was an issue with it. Otherwise, the only difference between the 9V and 18V Pre-amp. are the number of batteries (1 vs. 2) and the Dip Switches. Your not getting more output, you are only getting more battery longevity. The Dip Switches in the 18V provide frequency adjust flexibility, however, I find no need to adjust from Ken's factory settings (old vs. new).

Maybe some day I'll spend more time with different DIP Switch settings (doubtful though). If I need to adjust between 20Hz and 12k, I have all the flexibility from the bass and amp EQ: Not a problem.

[David Alan McIntire II]

Man, am glad to hear that. I figured I wasn't missin that much not havin the newer electronics. But ya know how folks get when somethin new comes out. Always tellin me I need to upgrade. I run pretty simple myself, rarely usin the eq at all. Bass sounds so good flat, barely need all the eq options I've got on bass or amp. It is a hair lower output wise compared to my other, 18v equipped basses, so that why aslkin if the newer Smith 18v pre had a hair more output. If that isn't the case, then no need to change. Another question, what impact does the finish of the bass have on its final tone. My bass has the hard finish as opposed to the oil. Is there a difference? My bass' wood grain isn't as flashy as some I've seen here, and though I don't mind, I think my bass has a pretty unique look, just wonderin if that finish may affect the looks of the wood, the sound of the instrument, and how.

[Tim Bishop]

You might want to check and see if you have a gain trim adjustment on your bass' pre-amp. If so, you can bump it up a bit for more output from bass.

Generally speaking, as far as finishes, I've played both. If built right; using quality woods and craftsmanship, I prefer an unfinished (i.e. oil finish) bass. The main reason? 1. I love the feel. 2. I also think the wood responds/vibrates better, thus, giving you more of what the tone woods used can produce naturally.

On the other hand, I also have some basses with clear-coat finishes and wouldn't part with them for anything. Particularly those finishes that are not over-sprayed (i.e. too heavy a clear-coat). While the clear-coat does provide protection, more times than not, I go back to my oil finished basses.

Lastly, you can get a "dud-of-a-bass" whether it is sprayed with lacquer or hand-rubbed-oil finished. This is why it is important to know the craftsman you are dealing with. There are a bunch of instrument builders out there, but few are legitimate Master Luthier's.

Shop wisely!