![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Ah, but in a fifty years time there will be a rumour going around that Loveri DID make bows, because there are some bows around with his name stamped on them!
![]() Perhaps the Amati was attributed deliberately after a maker who never made basses?? ![]() OK Ken, I had mis-read that your tip that leaving the "shelf" under the bass bar was an inherently good thing, instead of just "working around the bar" to improve the thicknesses. When I regraduated my own bass, I worked neatly right up to the bar, and in fact now you can see the bar and the original glue line raised above the level of the plate. The edges of the bar are sheer and clean right down to the new thickness. If I was to do it again, I'd remove the bar and put a new one on after regraduating. It was very fiddly working neatly right up to the bar, and replacing a bassbar is no big deal in comparison. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Matthew, keep an eye on the top in this area. I'm afraid you may have inadvertently created a fault line which could cause a crack. This is the same reason why patch edges should not be finished parallel with the grain.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I don't see why I would have created a fault line? The bar is still set at a slight angle to the top grain. If I'd finished the regrad at a sharp line parallel to the top grain, maybe. But the stresses are still distributed exactly the same as they were before, because the bass bar is in the same spot. The top is just slightly thinner, and a little thicker immediately under the bar.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I've taken off from 1mm going to 2mm at the tips. I'm not worried structurally, but as I said, I don't think I'd do it again that way. And your words of caution are duly noted!
|
![]() |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|