Help with my String/Bridge Height

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

Hey Ken, what did you mean by this?
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Ken Smith; Height under the string at the Nut should be a business card above 'zero'.

This means that the Strings at the Nut should just be above the fingerboard a slight amount so pressing down in the lower positions is not excessive work. Playing a Forte open string should be the test. The Bass should not buzz much if at all at the Nut/Fingerboard joint if played fairly hard. Actually, my basses do usually on some strings because I do not set-up the bass for open string playing. Leaving the string high at the nut makes the string height higher up and down the fingerboard when pressing down from the open string. It also adds tension to the string as well.

If the bass has more scoop starting at the Nut then you can almost file the Nut down to the fingerboard itself like I do. On my basses, you can barely slide a piece of paper under the string by the nut. The general ruls is 1 or 2 business cards. Anything more is just extra work playing the bass. I prefer lower but that;'s just me!

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

I played a friends old Kay yesterday and the nut slots were so low I couldn't get a business card within 1/2" of the nut and the bass played great. I wouldn't tempt fate like that, but whadayaknow?

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Greg Clinkingbeard

I played a friends old Kay yesterday and the nut slots were so low I couldn't get a business card within 1/2" of the nut and the bass played great. I wouldn't tempt fate like that, but whadayaknow?

I can't slide a piece of paper under some of mine either and they play like butter. The Camber/fb curve makes up for this.

[Calvin Marks]

Hi all, so I decided to try plaining the bridge myself and am very pleased with the results. It was slightly more labor intensive than I thought it would be, but I suppose that makes sense considering how out of whack the string heights were to begin with.

This process took me 5 hours and I used some 120 grit sandpaper and a few different shaped rat-files.

I raised the adjusters to give me 9 mm on the E and then I began lowering the grooves. Once I got to 5.5/7/8/9 I had to sand off the top of the bridge...Really tiring work.

I decided to go for 5.5 instead of 6 on the G because I needed a bit more clearance from the D string.


Overall, I'm really happy with the results and I have all of you to thank!

[Calvin Marks]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

This means that the Strings at the Nut should just be above the fingerboard a slight amount so pressing down in the lower positions is not excessive work. Playing a Forte open string should be the test. The Bass should not buzz much if at all at the Nut/Fingerboard joint if played fairly hard. Actually, my basses do usually on some strings because I do not set-up the bass for open string playing. Leaving the string high at the nut makes the string height higher up and down the fingerboard when pressing down from the open string. It also adds tension to the string as well.

If the bass has more scoop starting at the Nut then you can almost file the Nut down to the fingerboard itself like I do. On my basses, you can barely slide a piece of paper under the string by the nut. The general ruls is 1 or 2 business cards. Anything more is just extra work playing the bass. I prefer lower but that;'s just me!

Ken, do you need to file the entire nut down in height or can you make a "slope" (ie. angled lower at the edge)?

Thanks.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

Ken, do you need to file the entire nut down in height or can you make a "slope" (ie. angled lower at the edge)?

Thanks.

I am not sure of your exact question but I will tell you how I file a nut. The strings enter straight in from the fingerboard and are angled back to the tuners or the other way around but one end of the Nut goes to a straight pull and the other an angle. The slot must follow the angle. I use a jewelers rat-tail file. Nicholson's are the easiest for me to fine here but "Swissmade' are as good but impossible to deal with that company.

The string should not be under the surface of the Nut but like the bridge, 1/2 -3/4 the depth of the string diameter. Same diameter rules to be used as on the Bridge, just the other anchor end and different wood. As you file deep, stop and rasp off or file off (depending and using a flat file of sorts) the excess ebony so the slot is not so deep. When all done, sand and polish it carefully and oil up the Nut.

Be careful not to slip with the file and hit the bass with it. Also, wear glasses or safety goggles. If you pull out of the slot quickly while filing fast and jam the file tip into the edge of the Nut missing the slot, the tip of the file can break off and go in your eye. I have had tips hit my face and forehead. I count my blessings.

Now, please do not get my next statement confused with something else.. ok?

I have handled more Nuts in my life than most Double Bass Lutheirs..

You know.. the Nut for the strings.. lol.

In my Electric Bass Business, I have handled over 5,800 in Brass alone. Brass Nuts.. Try them on for size..

The Ebony DB Nuts are easy for me in comparison to cutting Brass. I made a wide stepped Nut of Ebony for my Carl Thompson Electric Bass back in 1973/4 way before I started my business. Carl asked me NOT so Show off my NUT because everyone else will want one. Just one Ebony NUT, what harm can that do?..

So, filing the Nut slots from the FB to the peg box it's at an angle. The Nut shape will follow that pattern or it will be too high over the strings.

I made this temporary Nut the day I bought the Bass. Simple but functional. Note the gentle slope/angle from front to back, fb to peg. It stayed on the Bass till Arnold chopped the Neck off and be-headded the Scroll/Pegbox for its restoration. When it's done, it will have a new Grafted Neck, a C-extension and a new Nut for 3 of the Strings next to the Extension as usual.

[Calvin Marks]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

I am not sure of your exact question but I will tell you how I file a nut. The strings enter straight in from the fingerboard and are angled back to the tuners or the other way around but one end of the Nut goes to a straight pull and the other an angle. The slot must follow the angle. I use a jewelers rat-tail file. Nicholson's are the easiest for me to fine here but "Swissmade' are as good but impossible to deal with that company.

The string should not be under the surface of the Nut but like the bridge, 1/2 -3/4 the depth of the string diameter. Same diameter rules to be used as on the Bridge, just the other anchor end and different wood. As you file deep, stop and rasp off or file off (depending and using a flat file of sorts) the excess ebony so the slot is not so deep. When all done, sand and polish it carefully and oil up the Nut.

Be careful not to slip with the file and hit the bass with it. Also, wear glasses or safety goggles. If you pull out of the slot quickly while filing fast and jam the file tip into the edge of the Nut missing the slot, the tip of the file can break off and go in your eye. I have had tips hit my face and forehead. I count my blessings.

Now, please do not get my next statement confused with something else.. ok?

I have handled more Nuts in my life than most Double Bass Lutheirs..

You know.. the Nut for the strings.. lol.

In my Electric Bass Business, I have handled over 5,800 in Brass alone. Brass Nuts.. Try them on for size..

The Ebony DB Nuts are easy for me in comparison to cutting Brass. I made a wide stepped Nut of Ebony for my Carl Thompson Electric Bass back in 1973/4 way before I started my business. Carl asked me NOT so Show off my NUT because everyone else will want one. Just one Ebony NUT, what harm can that do?..

So, filing the Nut slots from the FB to the peg box it's at an angle. The Nut shape will follow that pattern or it will be too high over the strings.

I made this temporary Nut the day I bought the Bass. Simple but functional. Note the gentle slope/angle from front to back, fb to peg. It stayed on the Bass till Arnold chopped the Neck off and be-headded the Scroll/Pegbox for its restoration. When it's done, it will have a new Grafted Neck, a C-extension and a new Nut for 3 of the Strings next to the Extension as usual.

Thank you VERY much.