Bridge Adjustment on New Bass

[Calvin Marks]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

The Fingerboard needs the arch it needs. This will depend on the shape and thickness of the FB at the start. Often though, the FB may need to be replaced if there is not enough wood to work with to get it right. Why do all that work only to end up with a thin fingerboard? A thin fingerboard gives the neck less support and in time will bend requiring more FB planing. That is usually the sign of the need to replace the FB.

Once again, take the bass to a 'qualified' Luthier and go from there. Eventually you may learn yourself what a bass needs before hand regardless of the need for the Luthier to do the actual work for you. 'Knowing' is often half the battle.

Indeed. Thanks again.

[Matthew Tucker]

Calvin, just so you know, the curvature of the fingerboard is not necessarily the same from end to end. Quite often it is flattish near the nut and then much more pronounced curve closer to the bridge, and the important thing is that between the two extremities the transition is completely smooth.

Think of a "contact path" directly under each string; that's how a good luthier will approach the fingerboard shaping, by getting the path right for each string, including the right amount of scoop from nut to FB end, then smoothing over the flats so that the fingerboard is even across the board from end to end. Then checking again there are no high spots, then a final polish.

It can be quite a few hours work.

[Calvin Marks]

I get both basses back on Friday. I'll let you know the results.

[Calvin Marks]

Got the bass back yesterday. Sounds fantastic. The bridge spacing has been widened from 25 to 26.5 centre to centre of each string. The bass is shacking the walls it's so freaking loud.

[Tomas Bouda]

nice. maybe i'll hear it around toronto sometime!