When it comes to DB tops what are the wood choices?

[james condino]

I think this is my first post here; usually I'm just a lurker. For the last three decades, I've probably shopped for tonewoods at least three days a week, every week of the year and I wind up buying 4-5 times a year. I've found nice bass tops for as low as $175 and as high as $1000+. Usually the closer you get to the person who actually cut the wood, the better the price. Every time the wood changes hands, the price tends to double ( or more), so buying from larger retailers who just broker it from other folks is not a great way to go. The Alaska folks should be a reasonable choice for a fair price. Pacific Rim tonewoods had a very nice supply earlier this year. If you are in doubt, just ask them if you can have a return policy or right of refusal, that way you are only out the cost of shipping. Remember that there is a HUGE difference between a nice seasoned instrument grade spruce billet and just a big chunk of 6 month old wet spruce. Ask the folks that actually build and they'll generally set you on the right path.

Having done it myself many times, the last being earlier this year, I'll also add that in almost every part of this country you can get a US Forest service firewoood permit for about $20 that will allow you to fill up the back of your pickup with nice instrument grade timbers. The species may vary, but they are out there. It is hard work, but I enjoy it. I also HIGHLY recommend making a roadtrip to the pacific northwest and visiting a few dozen suppliers onsight and hand selecting through thousands of boards just to bring home your favorite couple. It is a valuable learning experience and you'll also make some lifelong contacts with the individual suppliers.

I'd suggest you buy two tops for your first build; that gives you a nice safety net if you completely blow it or if you wind up finding huge inclusions or a chipmonk living inside of the boards. If everything goes well, then you'll have a nice top already set aside for #2.

j.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by james condino

........... I'd suggest you buy two tops for your first build; that gives you a nice safety net if you completely blow it or if you wind up finding huge inclusions or a chipmonk living inside of the boards. If everything goes well, then you'll have a nice top already set aside for #2.j.

Chipmunks? Do they make good pets?

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by wayne holmes

Ken, just look at those artistic hands- why she has four of them-upper and lower hands -- looks like she's rolling a weed and playing the piano at the same time. America does have talent, afterall.

That's right little munk- curve your fingers over the keys, now! one, two, three, four- Christmas, Christmas time is here (COUNT) time for toys and time for cheer--we've been good but we can't last(RHYTHM!)...

Alvinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

[Ruben E garcia]

Originally Posted by james condino

Remember that there is a HUGE difference between a nice seasoned instrument grade spruce billet and just a big chunk of 6 month old wet spruce. Ask the folks that actually build and they'll generally set you on the right path.


j.

And That’s takes me to the other point… Moisture content, for furniture making I always heard that 8% is the number… for a piece of Spruce most be similar or look for a kiln dried piece of 2 years or more?

I don’t have a moisture meter but the Pine that u get a home depot moves more than a living tree…(joke)

[Arnold Schnitzer]

Moisture content is important, and 8% is a good starting point. It's also important to use wood that has been properly "tortured". Tonewood needs to be stored in a place with good ventilation, but where it can season with the climate. For example, here in the Northeast, wood that is seasoned outdoors will undergo everything from zero to a hundred degrees (Fahrenheit) and 15% to 100% relative humidity. After several years of this, the wood will have stabilized, and then it needs to be brought into the shop for acclimatizing. This takes anywhere from a year to 3 or 4 years. Ideally, the wood ends up drier than it will become in its life as an instrument, because wood that has been over-dried will not expand and contract as much in its future as wood that has not.

[Ruben E garcia]

thanks to you guys I have an Idea where to start in this project...

[Ruben E garcia]

Originally Posted by Arnold Schnitzer

Moisture content is important, and 8% is a good starting point. It's also important to use wood that has been properly "tortured". Tonewood needs to be stored in a place with good ventilation, but where it can season with the climate. For example, here in the Northeast, wood that is seasoned outdoors will undergo everything from zero to a hundred degrees (Fahrenheit) and 15% to 100% relative humidity. After several years of this, the wood will have stabilized, and then it needs to be brought into the shop for acclimatizing. This takes anywhere from a year to 3 or 4 years. Ideally, the wood ends up drier than it will become in its life as an instrument, because wood that has been over-dried will not expand and contract as much in its future as wood that has not.

PS did you get my PM