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#1
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Yes, you mentioned that earlier indirectly. Ask a few Luthiers that have done a lot of Bars, maybe Arnold or Jeff and see for that size bass what might be best. Most Bars blanks I have seen are thicker in the rough form. I just don't know what to advise here other than the thickness might matter.
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#2
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Springing or not springing the bass bar, at least a little?
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#3
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NONE, Ever, unless you want the top to sink at the ends sooner or later. Flush fit only. Sprung Bars break basses, period.
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#4
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Yes I remember you mentioning something similar before, thumb pressure on the bar, very little or no pressure
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#5
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The Bar should be fit Flush to the Top, no pressure at all. Even clamping without forcing the ends down at all.
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#6
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Ok I am going a little crazy with the Edges:
I can not make the south part of the top to flush, everything else is making contact with the surface, and If I keep removing material from the whole top so the south part can touch, I am going to be removing a lot of material from the original top... I don't know what is wrong... I also notice that the top curve from west to east is not perfect should i be concern about that? u can see it the pictures ??? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#7
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Show me/us the Fitting problem you are having and do not remove anything original.
Sometimes the Blocked frame shifts. Sometimes you have shrinkage of the Top grains and the Top is shy of the Ribs i n the lower bout. In this case, The Ribs are cut and trimmed at the Block. For this you have to remove the lower Ribs from all blocks and re-fit it o the Corner possibly but if not, just at the Tailblock, Cut and pull together to fit the Top and maybe Back. The Plates should overhang just a bit. In the Blocks with Ribs twisted inwards, then the Top will overhang more. Still, nothing is ever perfect on an old bass. |
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