The 5-String Double Bass

[Ken Smith]

Not a speck of Rosin on the strings or bridge! How do you keep it so clean?

[David Powell]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

Not a speck of Rosin on the strings or bridge! How do you keep it so clean?

You know that just doesn't happen to me. I've posted about this problem several times. I just never get any rosin anywhere but on the strings. And then it's a powder that just wipes off. I actually wipe it off pretty frequently when I'm practicing. But I'm finding with the black hair I need far less rosin. And it is pretty hot so I'm using the Hard Oak for the first time. It works great with the black hair.

I did scrape the bridge clean with a blade about a week ago, but it really didn't have much rosin on it, just some surface dirt from going in and out of the case. That's the first bridge I carved. Hopefully the last too. I had blisters every where I had skin.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by David Powell

You know that just doesn't happen to me. I've posted about this problem several times. I just never get any rosin anywhere but on the strings. And then it's a powder that just wipes off. I actually wipe it off pretty frequently when I'm practicing. But I'm finding with the black hair I need far less rosin. And it is pretty hot so I'm using the Hard Oak for the first time. It works great with the black hair.

I did scrape the bridge clean with a blade about a week ago, but it really didn't have much rosin on it, just some surface dirt from going in and out of the case. That's the first bridge I carved. Hopefully the last too. I had blisters every where I had skin.

You carved and fit that Bridge? Good job, it looks great. How is the radius on that Bridge? My 4-string Basses average about 1/2" putting a ruler under the outer strings and measuring the distance to the top of the bridge in the center. The 5er I have is 3/4" for 5 strings and the 4-string measurement (without the B) is just under 1/2", slightly shallower.

[David Powell]

I had matched the radius of the fingerboard at 72mm, I think or somewhere close to that. I haven't measured the radius of the bridge. I based it on the original bridge which was fine height wise, the spacing was just too close for arco. Ideally, I think a slightly tighter radius would be better on the fingerboard. But before I do that, I could reset the strings just a little wider. G, D, and A are all fine, E is a little tight. Or I could go for one inch between instead of 1 inch on center. I'll try that first with a different spacing on the original bridge. It was a lot lighter maple, but it still sounded good. If I put adjusters in it, I could trim the top and try the different spacing.

Thanks for the compliment on the bridge. The photos are close enough to show the small mistakes. I totally abstained from any sandpaper on that one. I just wanted to see if I could do it. I used two flexcut knives and a little modeling plane. The planer really brought out the rays in the maple. Scraping it to clean it was a tip I got from you somewhere along the way.

[Ken Smith]

David, regardless of the Fingerboard arch, you need a minimum amount or Bridge arch to Bow. Drawing a line on top of the bridge under the strings, measure the height every other string from that line to the bottom of the string in the middle. Looking with your eye it should be about 1/4" but with a 5-string you may have trouble getting much more than 3/16". A 5er is usually a tighter Bowing Bass from what I have experienced so good Bow technique is needed.

I know that having a good Fingerboard arch to nearly match your bridge is preferred but it would be working backwards to shape the bridge to match the FB. Yes, the string heights may not be optimum but reducing the bridge arch impedes clean bowing.

Since the String heights normally increase from the G to the E (or B) strings, it is best to work on the Bowing arch first if you intend to Bow. Fixing or replacing your fingerboard might be another option as well so as not to take it out on the bridge.

[David Powell]

If I decide to reduce the radius of the board (increase the arch) there is quite a bit of thickness to work with. Essentially, I'd just be taking it off at the edges a little to match a radius guide.

It just seems that right now I have more space than I really need with G and D so I could rotate the G & D closer to the edge, bring the A to just slightly favoring the treble side of the board and that will probably do it. It's a tricky set up. I might have 3/16, but probably not on the bass side because the string heights go from 6m to 10mm, so right there I'm losing 4mm already. One thing that makes me hesitant to change anything is that the more I practice and the more the bass opens up, the easier the E string starts, so it is tempting to just leave it be and concetrate on technique. It does work, I just have to be particular with certain notes starting. Bow tension, bow speed, where the bow hits the string between the FB and bridge;- all that seems very important. I probably will not change much on this bass until I have a spare.

[Ken Smith]

String spacing should be about 1" to 1 1/16" string-to-string, center-to-center and not in between the strings. This way, the E and A will feel closer than the G and D. Also, is the B is slightly further from the E, this will make the Bass play easier with the Bow as a 4-stringer and have the B reachable for those few moments it is actually needed in orchestral works.

Right now, I am practicing regular 4-string music on my 5er just to get use to playing it G-to-E and I don't think about the B-string being there. On my Bass however, everything just feels big including the body of the Bass. Although this neck was big to begin with if I had just left it as a 4-string, the Bass feels easy enough to play when I dabble with a few solo pieces up the G and D. Not a bad trade off I think.