Hello

[Craig Regan]

Leveling the ribs: Last night I removed the inside braces and worked on getting the front rim flat. Once the ribs are flush, I can trace the outline of the bass to the spruce top and begin carving.

A small block plane worked the best. I also tried some sticky sand paper on a flat board and moved the bass back and forth. The "giant sanding block" method worked o.k., it just seemed to lack some of the olde world appeal of the simple hand tool. In the end, it was good to experiment with different methods and the front rim is now very flat.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Craig Regan

Leveling the ribs: Last night I removed the inside braces and worked on getting the front rim flat. Once the ribs are flush, I can trace the outline of the bass to the spruce top and begin carving.

A small block plane worked the best. I also tried some sticky sand paper on a flat board and moved the bass back and forth. The "giant sanding block" method worked o.k., it just seemed to lack some of the olde world appeal of the simple hand tool. In the end, it was good to experiment with different methods and the front rim is now very flat.

The ribs are flush?? Do you mean no overhang 'Lip' for the Top and Back or do you mean 'once the Ribs are trued up'? Basses without an overhanging Lip can develop more problems over time. Even Basses with a Lip when made turn Flush over time around the lower Bout and Ribs need to be shortened at the Block to remedy this.

[ed hauser]

Craig how do you think this will stand up against "store" bought basses? i know you said it was for your son as an upgrade, i was just curious?

[Craig Regan]

Originally Posted by ed hauser

Craig how do you think this will stand up against "store" bought basses? i know you said it was for your son as an upgrade, i was just curious?

Its going to blow them away!

Seriously, Since this is my first build, i have no idea. His stand partners all play Shen 3/4 willows and hybrids. It will be interesting to hear how they sound side by side and together as a section (if I ever get it done). Currently he play a plywood bass.

Ken, the ribs are "trued up", just couldn't come up with a better term.
The back has a 3/16" (5 mm) overhang, I think it looks attractive. The extra overhang could possibly help protect the ribs and be helpful in future repairs.

The Shen overhang seemed very tight to me. Could be to keep the edges from catching on bass bags and such.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Craig Regan

Its going to blow them away!

Seriously, Since this is my first build, i have no idea. His stand partners all play Shen 3/4 willows and hybrids. It will be interesting to hear how they sound side by side and together as a section (if I ever get it done). Currently he play a plywood bass.

Ken, the ribs are "trued up", just couldn't come up with a better term.
The back has a 3/16" (5 mm) overhang, I think it looks attractive. The extra overhang could possibly help protect the ribs and be helpful in future repairs.

The Shen overhang seemed very tight to me. Could be to keep the edges from catching on bass bags and such.

On the 'Store Bought' as far as Guitar stores go they sell Junk for the most part aka BSO/Bass shaped objects. Professional Bass shops on the other hand can sell Basses from under $1000 to over $100k so there is a range there if values are correct on the offerings. Any smart minded DB shopper should not buy Cheap Basses in a Guitar Store or the cheapos on Ebay. OnlyfFirst time Buyers who no very very little about DBs buy these 'negative value' wannabes.

On your Bass Craig, might I suggest Bumpers at the onset? Matching Rib wood under the Varnish would be best I think. Save your edges BEFORE they need Bumpers and repairs. I had them put on a few of my Basses recently. It's a relief in my mind when I lay the Bass down, trust me. This is the best time to do such a thing.

[Craig Regan]

I traced the outline of the bass to the top leaving a 3/16" overhang; then I cut out the shape. It was exciting to see the silhouette of the bass appear in the spruce. The next step was making the templates for the plate arching.

Evan though I am a little nervous about the next stage of the bass project; carving the top will be fun. My plan is to take it slow and enjoy the "experience".

Time sharpen some tools.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

Craig, you are doing some really nice work there. I think your arching profile shown in the pic could use some tweaking, though. The transition from the convex arch to the flat (or slightly concave) zone around the edges looks extremely sudden to me. Personally I find basses sound best when the plates have gradual, rather than sudden curves. Hope this is helpful!

[Craig Regan]

I seem to have misplaced my camera; hope to find it soon so I can update the thread.

Currently, I am still carving the top by hand; its slow going but a good way to learn. It is tricky navigating the grain direction with all the hills and valleys. The spruce likes to tear out so I try to keep the tools very sharp.

More pictures coming soon....