#21
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So it begins
Meet my project... I got the craiglist bass, the guy who sold it, was a very nice guy... he thinks is a pre-WWII bass... looks old to me... but what I know... is top carve... spruce I assume... back carve... maple I think... got some ebony trin, in one side in the other side.... wood filler, got some cracks on the ribs and there is a patch on one rib also... has a crack at the bottom front, looks like someone made some repairs on it... i dont see any repairs inside the bass...
here are some pictures...PS the guy also gave me the sound post... and a nice ebony tailpiece You can see the cracks at the bottom front Ebony end Pin the back has a litle opening too I dont know if you can see there is a crack on this rip a patch the machines are very smooth |
#22
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So it begins
the neck looks fine, some figured wood, maple right???
The ebony trim the front the back Now the question is... did i do good? any comments??? Where do i start... I want to make the bass playable... I am more concern about the playability of the bass than the looks... I think the distress look with a litle TLC is better than a new looking bass.. I guess I dont want to make unesesary repairs, that at the end decrement the quality of this instrument.... I LOVE IT.... one more thing I guess I need a book that taugh me how to repair DB's... what u guys recomend? Last edited by Ruben E garcia; 10-31-2010 at 07:23 PM. |
#23
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In my opinion you need to get (and read) the Violin Repair book by Hans Weisshar. It is considered the "bible" for string instrument repair, and will not teach you bad habits. My thanks to Jeff Bollbach for turning me on to this great resource many years ago.
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#24
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Now I need a good book about the subject… Now the front is carve for sure and the back I think it have to be carve too (In my opinion), why because the curve, and the joint in the middle, you can also see in the label picture the little squares running thru all the back plate. Well the dude say it was 41” not too sure I will measure and I’ll let you know |
#25
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Ruben, when a master luthier like Arnold Schnitzer suggests something, you really need to take it seriously and thank him for taking the time to help you. If you're planning on being a luthier that does fine work, you are probably going to have to invest some money in your education. Find the book used if you can. Why don't you look into apprenticing with someone?
I only jump in here because I know the futile feeling of trying to help people on forums and then either being rebuffed or ignored. Good luck with your project. |
#26
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#27
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Ruben, have no fear, no feelings were hurt. If you are in the Atlanta area, you could try and look up Emory Clements, a fine bassist and equally talented luthier. And seriously, start your search for a copy of the Weishaar book, even if you have to borrow one (and run to the copy center). Naah, I didn't mean that.
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#28
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Nice photos - looks like a good project to me! Keep us posted!
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#29
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I am glad… Thank you Arnold, Eric is right, the simple fact that u are tacking the time to offer your advise could humble anyone… when I saw ur work… I was totally speechless for a while… seriously it has to be a collection of the most beautiful DB's that I ever seem… I will do my best to own that book. Mean while I have to get my hands on every book, video or internet information that I can get. And also invest time on mastering my skills.. I am feeling like I need to take this DB to an Luthier, I will call Emory to see if he can see me… I don’t know where to start, I think this DB is close to be playable, after gluing the FB… I don’t really know where to start or what to do next.. I need the kind of experience that u cant learn by reading or browsing.. Again thank you Update: I sent an email to Mr. Emory, lets see if he can see me Last edited by Ruben E garcia; 11-02-2010 at 10:12 AM. |
#30
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Thank you, well I checked the top yesterday with a mirror like Wayne suggest and found that it being repair... so I think so far that this bass could be put together after gluing the FB, nut and bridge...but first I am planning on taking this baby to an qualify luthier, so he can tell me what’s need to be done, I am also trying to find out if the back is carve as well…
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#31
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by the way how old u guys think this bass is?
is anyone have an idea of the back is carve, just by looking at it? |
#32
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if the back has a centre joint visible from inside and outside, and if the grain pattern on the outside matches - more or less - the pattern of grain on the inside, and if the edges where damaged are not chipped like plywood, its carved.
Looks carved from where I sit. |
#33
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As for age - my guess would be something like 1940's... but I'm not really qualified to say. On second thought, maybe a little later. heh. |
#34
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I second the visit to Emory! Definitely worth it, if not just to play his basses. (The ones he made...)
He is a super nice guy and will hopefully mentor you. BG |
#35
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I see what u are saying, I will take a closer look, ones I get home tonight….I think its carve on the back |
#36
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I sent him an email yesterday, hopefully he will be able to see me…. Wow Mentor! that would be nice J |
#37
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update!
I have spoken with 3 luthiers so far and the estimates for the repairs range from $4500 to $1200,just the fingerboard goes from $1000, to $600, and $350... some of then don’t want to do it, they said its too much work ... last night one told me that the back opening in the back need to be fix of the bass can break, the rip crack is not a big deal, they said don’t mess too much with the cosmetic appearance that bass players don’t care for that J, I think the top repair its ok (I wish I could do something about the top crack appearance)
. I got one more to go, and I trying to find out if I should open the back or the Front top first Last edited by Ruben E garcia; 11-16-2010 at 11:16 AM. |
#38
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U guys left me all by my self , that's ok... Update!!! I did get some advise from one luthier, I am going to be opening the front to repair the bottom and the back opening, he explained how to…(He recomend not to open never the back because the bass will lost it shape!!!) I am waiting for my DB repair book to arrive, and he also showed me an used ebony fingerboard for $200, nice figure but it worries me a little knot in the back and a little wave in the front, I made a sketch for u guys to see it, by the way if you want to recommend somebody to buy a fingerboard from or you have one send me a PM, I am not at the point where I need one but I would like to start studying the case
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#39
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#40
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So I pop it
I posted this on TB… this is what I did this weekend:
The Bottom Block : The Front repair: |
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