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#1
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Ken does this bass look familiar?
"Several years ago I saw the 2nd one which was a Bob G/Bulgarian Bass. Must have been the older models with the shiny Lacquer finish and low neck stand model. I played only a few notes on it and that was it"
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Blackwater USA: The other white meat! |
#2
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huh?
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#3
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Here's the big sister of "that bass" Just a few close ups of this bridge I carved about 2 years ago. Last edited by David Powell; 07-10-2007 at 06:58 PM. Reason: white space |
#4
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long tall "Ivanna"
OK, so here's what she looks like uncropped:
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#5
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Rosin?
Not a speck of Rosin on the strings or bridge! How do you keep it so clean?
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#6
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I did scrape the bridge clean with a blade about a week ago, but it really didn't have much rosin on it, just some surface dirt from going in and out of the case. That's the first bridge I carved. Hopefully the last too. I had blisters every where I had skin. |
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New Bridge?
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#8
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I had matched the radius of the fingerboard at 72mm, I think or somewhere close to that. I haven't measured the radius of the bridge. I based it on the original bridge which was fine height wise, the spacing was just too close for arco. Ideally, I think a slightly tighter radius would be better on the fingerboard. But before I do that, I could reset the strings just a little wider. G, D, and A are all fine, E is a little tight. Or I could go for one inch between instead of 1 inch on center. I'll try that first with a different spacing on the original bridge. It was a lot lighter maple, but it still sounded good. If I put adjusters in it, I could trim the top and try the different spacing.
Thanks for the compliment on the bridge. The photos are close enough to show the small mistakes. I totally abstained from any sandpaper on that one. I just wanted to see if I could do it. I used two flexcut knives and a little modeling plane. The planer really brought out the rays in the maple. Scraping it to clean it was a tip I got from you somewhere along the way. |
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