Neck set - bridge height question

[Craig Regan]

When setting a neck, what is the best way to determine the bridge height? According to the Treager book, on page 132, bottom left hand column, he puts a straight edge on the fingerboard, makes a mark on the bridge, then adds 5/8" of an inch for the finished bridge height. Does this sound reasonable?

[Craig Regan]

I put a straight edge on the finger board and made a mark on an old bridge at the highest point, this read 6 1/4".

6 1/4" + 5/8" = 6 7/8" bridge ht?

Here is a photo to help explain the procedure:

Thanks in advance.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

The addition is more like 10-11mm, or 3/8", if you are going after an average modern steel string set-up.

[Craig Regan]

So my straight edge on the fb should hit around the 6 1/2" point of the bridge to get a 6 7/8" (175 mm) bridge height?

Also, is 175 mm a good bridge height?
The bass is a Panormo copy, 170 mm spacing between the upper f-hole eyes.

[Ken Smith]

Are you putting bridge adjusters in the bass? If so, take that measurement in consideration or you will have to re-cut the top of the bridge after the adjusters are in a second time. Measure twice, cut once.. Then again.. measure 10x.. twice may not be enough..

Are you really using that bridge in the picture with the funny looking foot joint?

[Craig Regan]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

Are you really using that bridge in the picture with the funny looking foot joint?

Thats just an old bridge I am using for set up. I like the swivel action!

I am in the process of cutting the neck angle and fitting the neck into to the mortise. The finger board in the photo is being held in place with a mock neck. This is to help me figure out all the critical dimensions like over stand, neck angle and bridge ht. Believe me, I'll be measuring more than twice.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

Originally Posted by Craig Regan

So my straight edge on the fb should hit around the 6 1/2" point of the bridge to get a 6 7/8" (175 mm) bridge height?

Also, is 175 mm a good bridge height?
The bass is a Panormo copy, 170 mm spacing between the upper f-hole eyes.

That's a little high, especially if the top arch is high. If so, you are putting the bow arm far from the player's body and inviting shoulder stress. I think 6 1/2" to 6 3/4" is good for a 7/8 bass, unless the c-bouts are really wide.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Arnold Schnitzer

That's a little high, especially if the top arch is high. If so, you are putting the bow arm far from the player's body and inviting shoulder stress. I think 6 1/2" to 6 3/4" is good for a 7/8 bass, unless the c-bouts are really wide.

Well, on the subject of playability measurements it my be interesting to study my big Gamba bass playability-wise which has wide c-bouts with a 46mm overstand and a bridge height of almost 6 3/4" with string heights of 4.5mm/G - 9.5mm/E strung with Evah Weich protos. On the C-bouts, it is interesting to note the while the upper F-eyes are spaced at 190mm between them the bar is set inwards a bit requiring a 170mm bridge to sit over the middle of the bar. Luckily, we were able to re-use the Bridge that was with the Bass when I aquired it because anything over 165mm is difficult to find. This Bridge has some nice tight grain to it as well. I was happy it cound be reused.

Big basses and those with higher/deep shoulders (or combined) need extra special attention to detail over the normal 3/4 or 7/8th basses because if you can't play it, what good is it. The true Panormo's and basses of that School are ofter the larger 7/8ths to 4/4 in size by today's standards. Playability in its measurements in my mind are equally important to any other detail of the bass.

Arnold, since my Bass is done already maybe you can critique it from the #s and pics listed to possibly guide others as far as what's best and what's not. Some time sonner than later you will see this 'big boy' in person and have a better birdseye type view of it but for now I am sure you can say a few things on the subject that might benefit us all.