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  #41  
Old 03-27-2007, 11:09 AM
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Cool I doubt it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_M View Post
I was wondering if Ken's every experimented with wenge in the neck of a prototype Smith?


I suspect IF he has, he's determined that he prefers what he is currently using in his necks.


About 10 years ago, I had a Wenge/Paduk combination in a custom Ibanez 6-String. Overall, the bass just didn't have the mid-range bite and the crisp highs: Just warm and muddy sounding. I was not impressed with that combination of woods on that particular model bass.
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  #42  
Old 03-27-2007, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Bishop View Post
I suspect IF he has, he's determined that he prefers what he is currently using in his necks.


About 10 years ago, I had a Wenge/Paduk combination in a custom Ibanez 6-String. Overall, the bass just didn't have the mid-range bite and the crisp highs: Just warm and muddy sounding. I was not impressed with that combination of woods on that particular model bass.
Tim I played the SR-905 five string for about two years, the problem I had was in like kind a muddy sound and excessive hiss from either an incompatability issue with my rig at that time, a Hartke 700 watt Bass head running through Hartke 2 ten cab and one 15 cab. I had the bartolini pickups. But my question is how do you get rid of that muddy sound on the low end, how do you get to the warmth? With my ampeg all tube I have that, but if I ever go to a solid state how would you go about getting that tone?
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  #43  
Old 03-27-2007, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Albert Smith View Post
Tim I played the SR-905 five string for about two years, the problem I had was in like kind a muddy sound and excessive hiss from either an incompatability issue with my rig at that time, a Hartke 700 watt Bass head running through Hartke 2 ten cab and one 15 cab. I had the bartolini pickups. But my question is how do you get rid of that muddy sound on the low end, how do you get to the warmth? With my ampeg all tube I have that, but if I ever go to a solid state how would you go about getting that tone?


Albert, it's all about the right equipment. You have the right bass, so, depending on your playing style, set-up, strings used, and amplification and/or pre-amp, you should be able to dial in whatever you need!

I've shared with you what I use and I stand by it and would put it up against anything.
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  #44  
Old 03-27-2007, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Bishop View Post
Albert, it's all about the right equipment. You have the right bass, so, depending on your playing style, set-up, strings used, and amplification and/or pre-amp, you should be able to dial in whatever you need!

I've shared with you what I use and I stand by it and would put it up against anything.
My brother as always you have never lied, indeed currently for me there is no issue with warmth or clarity of mids/highs due to the rig and axe that I have been blessed with. But for those who do not at this time have a "Smith" or an Ampeg, Eden, etc, what do you recommend?
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  #45  
Old 03-27-2007, 01:39 PM
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Cool I would recommend.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Albert Smith View Post
My brother as always you have never lied, indeed currently for me there is no issue with warmth or clarity of mids/highs due to the rig and axe that I have been blessed with. But for those who do not at this time have a "Smith" or an Ampeg, Eden, etc, what do you recommend?



I would recommend they start saving their money and spend some time reading the following thread!


http://www.smithbassforums.com/showt...hp?t=21&page=2
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  #46  
Old 04-11-2007, 09:17 PM
Dave Cody Dave Cody is offline
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I have found that string thru bodies have a lillte more string tention than the same bass going just through the bridge. I don't see the need with Ken's Basses. I do like the firmness of the string with a 2 piece bridge, in fact my Smith is the only single piece bridge bass that has ever been a keeper for me.
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  #47  
Old 06-21-2007, 09:44 AM
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Tho' it can be done after market my only change would be matching knobs to the rest of th hardwear. Tho I realize the black knobs on the wood are sort of a KS trademark in look but matching knobs to the hardwear would be the bomb. Chromes are easy to match but truly matching the gold is a bear. Yes mine still have black knobs.
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  #48  
Old 06-21-2007, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Michaels View Post
Tho' it can be done after market my only change would be matching knobs to the rest of th hardwear. Tho I realize the black knobs on the wood are sort of a KS trademark in look but matching knobs to the hardwear would be the bomb. Chromes are easy to match but truly matching the gold is a bear. Yes mine still have black knobs.
Metal Knobs CAN transfer body static thru the surface and make the Pots sound scratchy when turning them. This is why we use the Black Rubber Knob over the metal insert.
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  #49  
Old 06-21-2007, 10:25 AM
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I knew you had a reason which is why I still have the original knobs on them. I trust that what you do is with great reason. You build the perfect instruments so I just play them as you build them. Also, any one who has NEVER to to the shop it is well worth the trip to actually see these amazing craftsman at work.


Quote:
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Metal Knobs CAN transfer body static thru the surface and make the Pots sound scratchy when turning them. This is why we use the Black Rubber Knob over the metal insert.
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  #50  
Old 08-29-2007, 04:05 AM
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Default Easy access battery comparment

I don't know if this has been mentioned because I didn't read every post but why not make a separate compartment for the battery that pops open for easy access instead of hiding it under the back plate which has to be screwed off? I have two non-smith's with the feature and it came it handy one night when my batteries went dead.
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  #51  
Old 08-29-2007, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Jenkins View Post
I don't know if this has been mentioned because I didn't read every post but why not make a separate compartment for the battery that pops open for easy access instead of hiding it under the back plate which has to be screwed off? I have two non-smith's with the feature and it came it handy one night when my batteries went dead.
To expound on this, I wouldn't necessarily want a separate compartment as I've found them to generally involve lousy plastic covers or otherwise be prone to problems.. Also, the less wood carved out of the body of my bass, the happier I am..

To implement something like this I would say make a metal access door in the metal backplate over the battery with a slotted metal latch that can be actuated using a key or screw driver. You get the convenience factor with less risk of damage from minor abuse.

The plastic, spring loaded battery cover on my Dean was broken off by my guitar player when he went to put the bass on to mess around and accidentally bumped the battery compartment, causing the cover to pop open. It was then wrenched out of it's socket by his leg. That compartment was convenient, until a minor bump which is very likely to happen in normal use made a situation where the battery would fall out and dangle from the bass under normal use.. I eventually gave up and fixed it.
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  #52  
Old 08-29-2007, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Faulkner View Post
To expound on this, I wouldn't necessarily want a separate compartment as I've found them to generally involve lousy plastic covers or otherwise be prone to problems.. Also, the less wood carved out of the body of my bass, the happier I am..

To implement something like this I would say make a metal access door in the metal backplate over the battery with a slotted metal latch that can be actuated using a key or screw driver. You get the convenience factor with less risk of damage from minor abuse.

The plastic, spring loaded battery cover on my Dean was broken off by my guitar player when he went to put the bass on to mess around and accidentally bumped the battery compartment, causing the cover to pop open. It was then wrenched out of it's socket by his leg. That compartment was convenient, until a minor bump which is very likely to happen in normal use made a situation where the battery would fall out and dangle from the bass under normal use.. I eventually gave up and fixed it.
An accident can happen any time with anything. I've been fortunate enough not to experience any mishaps with the battery compartments on my basses. But whether or not the battery compartment is carved separately in the body or accessed through the back plate I for one wouldn’t want the battery compartment accessed with a key or screwdriver. That defeats the purpose of having the quick access compartment. Also, I'm not so sure that such a small hole in the back of the bass would make a noticeable difference in tone. Ken can speak to that one.
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  #53  
Old 08-29-2007, 05:55 PM
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well, a key or screw driver would be the easiest, but i'm basically talking about a rotating latch with a slot you would use something flat to turn.. in theory you could just use a finger nail..
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  #54  
Old 08-30-2007, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Faulkner View Post
well, a key or screw driver would be the easiest, but i'm basically talking about a rotating latch with a slot you would use something flat to turn.. in theory you could just use a finger nail..
That could work
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  #55  
Old 02-29-2008, 01:24 PM
Reyes Rodriguez Reyes Rodriguez is offline
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Default 2/3 gears on the 5 string

I like everybody else on this forum like Ken Smith work but one thing I would change is the 2/3 gears on the 5 string models. I like the regular 3/2. No disrespect to Ken I just think the 3/2 looks better.
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  #56  
Old 02-29-2008, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firepower View Post
I like everybody else on this forum like Ken Smith work but one thing I would change is the 2/3 gears on the 5 string models. I like the regular 3/2. No disrespect to Ken I just think the 3/2 looks better.

Aren't the 2/3 gears an option? They were when I ordered my Smitty!
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  #57  
Old 02-29-2008, 04:41 PM
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Cool Really?

I'll take it either way if Ken Builds it.

I do, however, prefer the 2/3 for this reason: With this set-up/configuration, I believe the string tension is better distributed across the Peg-head, Nut, Fingerboard to bridge, thus, providing a better balance (tension-wise) across the neck.

It's my opinion and I'm stickin to it.
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Last edited by Tim Bishop; 03-01-2008 at 12:27 AM.
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  #58  
Old 04-18-2008, 08:59 AM
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Smile

Well, I'll just put this idea on the table.

Preamble: what always attracted me about Smith basses is the very peculiar body/headstock shape of the "old style" basses. The fact that they costed an arm and a leg here in Europe unluckily always kept me at... safe, drooling distance! I could not believe myself when in a forum here in Italy I could just swap my unused Warwick Corvette IV strings with what is now my 91 black Burner V!!! No money involved and voilĂ* I have my wonderful Smith "pet", too!

Now, what I would propose is a reissue series (a la... Fender!) that would be done replicating exactly the old body/headstock configuration, just for the nostalgic guys like me, both on 4 and 5 strings. Maybe just a simple BSR model...


Mmmmmhhhh..... difficult, uh?

Last edited by Virgilio Venditti; 04-18-2008 at 09:21 AM.
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  #59  
Old 12-27-2008, 01:57 PM
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Edit #2 here: This is in reference to an early post- sory I didn't identify it! Oops. Anyhow, you'll 'get it'...

Heh-heh. Yep, if it works, keep doing it. But it is kind of fun to read stuff like, "Ken shot it down" (in reference to a custom 'vanity' detail)... end of post! Low Sensibility-Divergence Tolerance!

I better watch my step around here, and not mention anything about stereo wiring, or balanced-out jacks...

But you can tell everybody loves their Smith bass, and has great regard for the builder and his crew. Me too, man. And someday, I'll have a BT with a Lacewood top. Someday...

Edit: I like that old-style too! The BT- I at first thought it was awkward, but it grew on me pretty quick. It now reminds me of a crown- not just the headstock but the entire bass. Way cool. I have a Burner too, and also think it should re-emerge. Great bass.
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  #60  
Old 12-27-2008, 06:44 PM
John McGuire John McGuire is offline
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1). The ability to have a third pickup in the neck area. I'm sure this has been tried? Would this add some deeper tone to the perspective?

2). optional chambered cores in the body wing areas to reduce weight. I played a Sadowsky NY with a chambered body and it was an awesome improvement. I didn't notice any dif.

3). Electronics to be able to switch to an old school single coil kind of vibe.

Please don't shot me! These are just some ideas for discussion! I love the ken smith I just got. Great bass. However, I still am bringing two basses to the gigs I've been playing when I need an old school vibe I bring either a 65 jazz bass or an old 4003 Ric and in addition to the KS BSR5GN for the newer fusion jazz stuff we do.
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