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#1
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![]() As a high school student, I'm really not sure if this is a good idea or not. I know it is not at all necessary, but I've been saving up plenty of money, and I thought it might be a cool thing to do for my Kolstein Fendt.
To my understanding, the four types of C-extensions are a stenholm, one with chromatic locks, an E-lock and one sliding lock, and then a fingered extension (sorry for using the word lock, I forget the right term). Of these, I'm not really sure about the advantages and disadvantages. Either help me and decide which of these is most effective, or help my wallet and convince me to not do anything ![]() Thanks, Patrick |
#2
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![]() In todays Orchestras unless it's been on the Bass awhile the two most common types are the Latched/Chromatic Extension or the Fingered/E-latch only Extension. This is what I have seen either on TV or in person. The NY Phil is mixed but Bill Blossom has made some Extensions for his and other Basses. The Philly Orch has either Mechanical Exts of older installations or Chromatic/Latched Exts with only one exception and that's the asst. Princ. Neil Courtney who has a Fingered/E-latch on his attrib. d'Salo Bass.
The difference in price between the Fingered and Chromatic is about 40% from my experience. My advice is get one of the guys who makes both types to make you a Fingered Ext. with the possibility of adding the latches later. Arnold, Jeff? Wanna steer this guy on the right direction? |
#3
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![]() Yeah, unless you are used to and addicted to a mechanical x-10-shun it is best to stay away from those. Lots of headaches. Kens advice is good-get one with an E latch only and you can always add whatever other latches you want later.
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#4
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![]() Jeff, what do you think of extensions as a luthier? A luthier I know hates them, so does a bow maker I know who does great work on violin family instruments.
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#5
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![]() Hi Jake. I'm not Jeff. He's busy gloating about last night. He deserves to do so. His bass sounded great in Bill Blossom's able hands!
About extensions--all C extensions are an imperfect solution to a major problem (needing to reach the low C to Eb). If professionally constructed and installed, they work well and sound good. In my opinion, the machine types are very problematic and I do my best to convince players to avoid them. Also, it is in vogue to get extensions which go down to a low B. I think this is a bad idea. There is too much torque pulling the neck and extension out of whack when you make the piece that long (hanging off the scroll about 4 inches). Every one I have seen, even relatively new, has been warped, with the center of the extension lifting up toward the string. I think the trend toward chromatic-gated extensions is here to stay. I also think it makes the most sense to have this type made all at once, not to have the extra gates rigged up later. |
#6
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![]() Quote:
BTW, Arnold-I forgot to tell you that I played Ken's Martini with the chromatic x-10-shun that you made. That was a beautiful thing-worked fantastically! Last edited by Jeff Bollbach; 01-25-2007 at 11:41 PM. Reason: none of yer beeswax |
#7
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![]() Thanks Arnold and Jeff! I was asking because I do not really like playing on extensions. Don't get me wrong, I've had the experience of being in orchestra sections where we had a some great players with extensions on their basses and the low notes sounded awesome. For me though, I just prefer a bass without one.
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jakenewcomb@hotmail.com |
#8
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![]() Quote:
I found the 5th string in my way when not in use. Also, playing it was not as easy as I thought. The only music I found the 5er to be better to use than an Ext. was the Brandenburg Concertos where the low notes change faster than one could change the stops. I think with practice, one could pull it off. With the Beethoven's 5th, it can be fingered but how in-tune are you? Is intonation that important that low down and at that tempo? Some players have a 5er at home for those special occasions when it would be best to use one. The majority of the players in USA just fight it out with whatever extension they have on their Bass. I am in the 'fight it out' stage as I have since put my 5er up for sale.. |
#9
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![]() I'd just rather leave the notes below to E to other people. I'd like to get a bass with a beautiful carved head like Jeff's 'Simba' bass so no conductor will ever demand that I get an extension.
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jakenewcomb@hotmail.com |
#10
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![]() Quote:
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#11
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![]() I had an extension added to my bass... The only thing I do NOT love about it is when playing pizz jazz, I dont get that same heavly growl out of hitting an open E when the E lock is in place... know what I mean? It doesnt lock as tight, I have to tighten it every now and then...
The extension was added by my luthier in miami florida, paris banchetti (spelling?) Here is a pic of the extension... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...b/P1040480.jpg |
#12
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![]() Quote:
Jason, that's a nice looking Bass from what I can see. Why not fill out your profile and tell us something about your Bass as well. What ever the origin, it can be added to the Bass Schools section in this Forum with pics from all angles. Ok? |
#13
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![]() Ill add a lil something now...
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#14
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![]() Is that a low B? Looks awful long!
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#15
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![]() Nope, its perfectly in tune C when open... I think my bass has a long string length... I forgot what it was last time I measured it... or maybe the scroll is short? but I agree it does look long! And I did start a thread on my bass.... http://www.smithbassforums.com/showthread.php?t=73
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Thump_ |
#16
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![]() That is a problem that I've never had with any of mine or those by others that I've played. I have to wonder if the brass bar that the "E" lock fastens into might be a little thin and flexing a bit. I usually use 1/4" thick brass on mine and the "E" locks tight and responds just like an open "E" on a bass without an extension. Just a thought.
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#17
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![]() My lock is Ebony... When I open and close it the lock nut loosens up I guess... I need to add a washer or something but dont want to make it vibrate at all... If i tighten it up...its good...
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Thump_ |
#18
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![]() I'm referring to the piece of brass that the screw (that passes through the Ebony lock/trigger) is threaded into prior to reaching the washer and lock nut. A thicker brass bar has more area for threads which results in greater rigidity before the locking nut is attached to the end of the screw. The purpose of the locking nut is simply to keep the screw from turning after the correct amount of tension has been applied to the screw (i.e. into the brass bar).
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#19
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![]() Quote:
Get a latched extension or a keyed extension later. A for letting other players cover low notes - I find it amateurish to show up on the job without the low notes. |
#20
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![]() Quote:
Personally, I would go for the best latched chromatic you can get that is easier to finger. This is better for the player all around and better for the Luthier knowing what to make from the start. The 3 basses I've used most in the last few years with Extensions were the Martini, Gilkes and Hart. The Gilkes was sold and maybe the best to play overall and a 41" length. The Martini and Hart are a toss up depending on the music. I used the Hart for my concert last week, the Martini the week or so before and its next to me here at home for a concert tomorrow. March and April, who knows? One of them or the Jacquet when it's done and if I can get used to it quick enough. All good classic Orchestra basses should have a high grade extension as standard. Like power steering and AC in a car. Can't go without it and get the job done. |
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