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Bass Set-ups
Ken pretty much nails down a good set-up before the bass leaves the shop, however, I was curious how all you Smith players like your bass set-up?
From the bridge to the nut and truss rod to your preference of bass strings. Let's hear about it: 1. The first thing I usually do is make sure the strings are fresh. Rarely, but on occasion, you can get a bad string. If so, I replace with fresh Smith medium Taper Cores. 2. Then I play for feel. If necessary, I will adjust the bridge and truss rod according to my preference of feel and playing style. 3. Then I tune the neck by the fretted note at the 12th. fret with the harmonic of the same within +/- a penny. 4. Then I take the bass for a test drive unplugged. I like to hear what the bass produces naturally (i.e. what do the woods contribute). 5. Then I take the bass for a test drive plugged in. On occasion I may adjust the gain (if available) of the bass internally if I feel the need to better match the instrument's electronic potential with that of the amp, but without overdriving the amp. 6. Lastly, but rarely do I need to adjust the P/U's, however, I am interested in the precise adjustment advantages of the pole pieces of the P/U's. For example: I usually listen for the signal strength of each played string up and down the neck. If one sounds a bit weaker than another, I will adjust the pole pieces accordingly until I reach a consistent level up and down the neck. 7. Then I just have fun! Ok, who's next? Last edited by Tim Bishop; 03-06-2007 at 03:41 AM. |
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Well...
Well, I guess no one has a preference or particular routine for set-up's?
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Tim Bishop |
#3
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Burner Nickel Medium Tapered 6 for me on both fretted and fretless.
Just the tiniest hint of relief on the neck and low action (no buzz) with the strings following the radius of the board. Bridge strobe tuned at the 12th and 24th (no problem on Smith basses ) then good to go. I stick with the same strings now (after much trial and error) and so my set up stays consistent season to season. |
#4
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Curious.....
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Bob, I'm curious: What is your reasoning for choosing Nickel's? Can you tell me what you like about them?
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Tim Bishop |
#5
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On my fretless they give me any fretless sound I want depending on pickup/eq settings and they are pretty easy on the Ebony board. I really like them better than the other Nickel or stainless strings I've tried and I've pretty much tried them all. Funny how my whole string experiment took me right back to the Smith Burner's I liked to begin with. It's likely I'll use them on my 3rd Smith whenever that happens though since I saved all the strings from my experiment I'll likely test again as the wood variations do make a difference and when I get my fretted bolt on Walnut I may prefer a steel string. Best, Bob Post script: Actually just got my CR6GF (fretless) back from my Luthier Savant after having the fingerboard redressed and am giving a set of TI Jazz Flats a whirl. I had them on a Pentabuzz but they were not a player in my "6 string test". I'll keep the post up on how they fare after a little break-in period. Last edited by BobWankowski; 04-17-2007 at 12:40 PM. Reason: added info |
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I play mainly fretless. I've honestly never changed the setup on my Smith at all. Everything was pretty much perfect. Ken had adjusted the G string to run with much lower action than the rest of the strings which makes the fretless growl from that string really stand out while the other strings have a much more moderate growl but stronger fundamentals. I've found I really enjoy that setup. I'm not a big fan of over the top fretless growl down low but a nice warm, moderate growl accenting the fundamental is a sweet thing. On the higher pitch notes the bright growl really stands out and is perfect.. I've setup all my fretless basses along these lines now.
I use both Smith slick rounds and compressors on my fretless basses. I currently have compressors on my Smith.
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Proud original owner of a 2001 Ken Smith BSR4EG lined fretless. My band's site: Delusional Mind |
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Can't play yet
Hello everyone
Just thought I'd resurrect an old thread to see if I could get some help. I finally got my BSR5MW and while I love the way it sounds, I can't play it yet because I'm missing the saddle height adjustment screw for the "D" string. Ken told me that I'd have to measure it since they are different lengths but since it's missing, I can't. Does anyone know what length would go on the "D" string saddle and what size allen key will fit? I can then go to a machine shop or call Ken back, set my bass up and finally play! Thanks. |
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screw..
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You are correct, I didn't mention what string. It is the screw on the "D" saddle closest to the "G" string. I probably would have thought you meant each individual screw was different. I'm going to have to go buy that .050" since it's smaller than any I use on my other basses. Thanks. |
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.050"
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I am feeling much better as well. Thank's for asking. I am in the office practicing DB and it's been the best therapy for my arm. It tells me what I can or can't do and each day is better than the last. |
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Yes, those are the strings. I'll be ordering on Monday morning and thank you for the assistance.
I really need to say that even without a proper set up, I can not put this bass down! It sounds amazing and was worth every penny paid! |
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