Electronics Upgrade

[Jason Mendelson]

Just curious to see what this might run me?

I just picked up a used 03 BSR6GN. It does not have the BMT electronics with the dip switches,, maybe Ken can find me the exact spec's from the S/N?

But what would it cost to upgrade to an 18v with the dip switches and front switches...

Im sure it will be worth it too!

Thanks!

Opinions welcome...

[Jason Mendelson]

well, thinking about it and doing more reading, the 18v pre-amp just drains 2 batteries, does not have any more "power" too it it seems...

so really the only thing I would do would be to add the dip switches...

if its worth it to me at this time... probably not since I am fortunate enough to have another fretted with this option....

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Jason Mendelson

well, thinking about it and doing more reading, the 18v pre-amp just drains 2 batteries, does not have any more "power" too it it seems...

so really the only thing I would do would be to add the dip switches...

if its worth it to me at this time... probably not since I am fortunate enough to have another fretted with this option....

Yes, the 18v drains 2 batteries but it has twice as many volts as well. When the batteries are down to 4 volts each, you still have 8 volts there. In essence, you have twice the battery life as the 18v model drains the same power as the 9v model, about .03 milliamps the last time we checked which was back in the early 1980's.

You are right about the 'output' power, no difference. The same as in a car. Two car batteries under the hood in series will not make the engine run any faster. It will just take longer for the power to go dead when you leave a light on.. lol

The other two differences with the newer 18v unit are the construction/durability and the internal D.I.P. Switches.

We have replaced quite a few 9v circuits from breakage between the Pot legs and the 'boards. This happens when the Bass is dropped in shipping or banged into severely. Also, when 'futzing' around inside the cavity changing the battery or tightening the Jack, a clumsy hand has broken just as many as the hits or falls. The new 18v model has a steel bracket mount system. You will crack the wood of the Bass before you break a Pot!

The internal D.I.P. switches is the only real 'sonic' difference between the 9v and 18v models. On the 18v model you can have the same 'start' settings (for the cut/boost) as the older 9v, the newer 'Ken-picked' settings as the current 'default' or, any other mixture that you can tangle up on your own. Each of the three +/- Pots (bs/mid/tr) has 4 positions of tone to choose from. Trust me when I say this. "I have tested them all and the two groups of setting I like most are the new and old defaults". After awhile while messing with the DIPs, you will start to forget what sounds good so, just be careful when playing in there as the DIP switch can be broken as well. You need a small tool to move them up and down and this tool what ever you choose can damage the circuit if you slit and hit something in there. I can see a gut playing in a Rock band with a bunch of 15s in the cabinet wanting the treble freq. lowered from 6k (now) to maybe 2k center so he can at least hear it as without a Horn and a good one, you can't hear the 6k boost or cut in the new 18v default or even the 3.5-4k in the older 9v default. The same goes for the Bass and Mids. I have no clue what will sound good to your ears so the best feature of the new 18v circuit is the diversity the DIPs give you to 'tune' you own freq. centers for the +/-.

[Jason Mendelson]

In the 12 years I have had my BMTE6G I never touched them and I think the bass still sounds great.

I haven't played this new one out yet, but for now, the sound is doing it for me.

Although, I may just do it to do it...

Any idea on costs (not including shipping back and forth of course).

Thanks!

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Jason Mendelson

In the 12 years I have had my BMTE6G I never touched them and I think the bass still sounds great.

I haven't played this new one out yet, but for now, the sound is doing it for me.

Although, I may just do it to do it...

Any idea on costs (not including shipping back and forth of course).

Thanks!

Usually I prefer doing this in private and not on a public forum where the world can read about the prices and services we charge and perform.

It is not cheap because we have to 'gut' the entire Bass to do the work. If both jobs (S/P and new Circuit) are done together the overall labor is cheaper. This may also involve re-shielding all the cavities and does involve and include a complete set-up with new Smith TCRM Strings.

Contact me in private or call me for a price estimate.

[Jason Mendelson]

Ill contact you about it when think I may want to do it...

thanks!

[Tim Bishop]

Jason, did you ever do the upgrade?

[Jason Mendelson]

No I didn't. I actually sold the bass when I found the bmt5eg...

[Christopher Rhodes]

You really sold it? Wow. This is the bass in your avatar, correct? I can never let mine go. Its a 1993, and it sounds better every year.

The early shape on the BMTs really help balance the bass while standing or sitting. So how is your new BMT 5-string? Any photos posted?

[Jason Mendelson]

No no no! It was a bsr6gn, not the bmte6g in my avater

[Allan Padmore]

I recently bought a bsr5gn and this is an awsome bass! The overall output compared to my 9volt crv5 is roughly similar. However I do NOT have to crank the bass knob to get hugh bottom end! Granted the new bass is an 18volt with different dip switches and S/P switches but Ken can confirm - frequency points are similar if not the same. Bottom line is the newer pre kicks butt over the 9volt version. I have not even thought about switching to another pre like I did with the crv5.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Allan Padmore

I recently bought a bsr5gn and this is an awsome bass! The overall output compared to my 9volt crv5 is roughly similar. However I do NOT have to crank the bass knob to get hugh bottom end! Granted the new bass is an 18volt with different dip switches and S/P switches but Ken can confirm - frequency points are similar if not the same. Bottom line is the newer pre kicks butt over the 9volt version. I have not even thought about switching to another pre like I did with the crv5.

The Newer Pre' is basically the same as the older Pre' but with some new additions. The DIP switch is one of them. The settings from the shop ARE different than the pre-set of the 9v unit. For instance, the Bass 'shelf' filter is set at 100 on the 9v but 200 on the 18v. What that does is boost (or cut) a wider band of frequencies. With the 9v set at only 100, the Bass is a tighter boost or cut. The 200 setting is just more. If both basses are the same exact woods (really impossible) and set flat, the only differences should be the woods themselves. The 18v pre' HAS the 9v default setting there as well as marked on the instruction sheet that comes with the Bass. The 18v just allows you to have it set differently.

The other two differences are more obvious. The Pots on the 18v are steel bracketed against the board to prevent breakage. The 18v also uses 2 batteries. This means little unless they both run low. At that point, they have a combined voltage and woll last longer than a single battery. They do however drain together so it 'eats' more juice along the way. The output is the same as if you put a second battery in your car under the hood. It wont go any faster, but will run longer with the lights left on!

[Allan Padmore]

Thanks for the info, Ken. I just knew the 18v sounded phatter and warmer. No need to max out the bass knob.

[Tim Bishop]

Not to my ear. I'm equally as pleased with either 9V or 18V pre-amp. When it comes down to the final mix, I see no advantage one over the other. If I had to choose between one over the other, the difference for me would most likely come down to the wood combinations.

[Allan Padmore]

Thats OK too. That's what's great about sound and tone - each individual has their own ear and taste. I know I won't have to upgrade my pre now. It has everything I need. The mids can produce an almost slightly overdriven tube grit if that's possible. Through my Aggie DB680 I was looking for a bit of grit but with the bsr5gn's mids I can coax some grit/hair from my tone.

[Jonny Blomgren]

Is it easy to install the 18v yourself?
My pots and jack are starting to wear out, and an upgrade would be a great way to cure that.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Jonny Blomgren

Is it easy to install the 18v yourself?
My pots and jack are starting to wear out, and an upgrade would be a great way to cure that.

Who are you asking this question to?

What exact bass do you have?

Does it have Series/Parallel switches, 7 holes in the Top of the bass?

Do you have all the exact tools to take it apart and re-assemble it?

[Jonny Blomgren]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

Who are you asking this question to?

What exact bass do you have?

Does it have Series/Parallel switches, 7 holes in the Top of the bass?

Do you have all the exact tools to take it apart and re-assemble it?

Anyone who knows.
BSR6GN (6GN163298T)
5 pots no switches = 5 holes.
Tools are probably cheaper than shipping the bass across the Atlantic.

[Tim Bishop]

Originally Posted by Jonny Blomgren

Anyone who knows.
BSR6GN (6GN163298T)
5 pots no switches = 5 holes.
Tools are probably cheaper than shipping the bass across the Atlantic.

Well, if you have the right tools, and if you are confident you can do the job, then yes, it's not a difficult task. Just take your time, be careful, don't mess up the shielding and you should be good to go.

[Tim Bishop]

Originally Posted by Jonny Blomgren

Is it easy to install the 18v yourself?
My pots and jack are starting to wear out, and an upgrade would be a great way to cure that.

I'm curious. Any particular reason you would choose the 18V over the original 9V pre-amp?