Switching KS master strings to KS tapered strings question

[Don Edge]

I have been using Ken Smith RMML5 (rock master lights) for over 10 years. Will there be any advantage, sound or performance, to switch to the TCRM-5s?

Thanks,

Don

[Tim Bishop]

Originally Posted by Don Edge

I have been using Ken Smith RMML5 (rock master lights) for over 10 years. Will there be any advantage, sound or performance, to switch to the TCRM-5s?

Thanks,

Don

Hi Don, first off, this thread should've originated in the Electric Basses section of the forum, not the Double Bass section. Maybe Ken can move it?

Ok, back to the strings: Both sets of strings are quality (sound and performance) strings. You will need to decide which feels and sounds better to your ear. Going to the Smith Medium Taper Cores, you WILL need to set-up your bass accordingly. Why? Because the Smith Medium Taper Cores are a heavier gauge AND because of the tapered string at the ball-end, will sit lower in the bridge saddles.

To my ears, I prefer the Smith Medium Taper Cores with my Smith Basses, or any electric bass for that matter. I've tried other strings, however, I come back to the Smith Medium Taper Cores and I would highly recommend them to anyone wanting a great quality string for optimal sound output.

[Ken Smith]

The G and D of the RMML are slightly heavier than the G and D of the TCRM. The A and E of the TCRMs are heavier by one full gauge. The Bs are as well a gauge apart, the TCs being heavier.

The TC A, E and B although heavier will sit lower on the saddle because of the partial string diameter of the tapered string. This will require a bridge adjustment. The G and D you might leave or raise slightly. The Neck will be pulling move evenly actually but slightly heavier so a neck adjustment might be in order.

All in all, don't move things around that much. Just minor tweaks rather than over shooting the adjustments and missing center like a bad golfer trying to get the ball in the hole. Just tap it in..

[Don Edge]

I found where it should go after I posted. Being new to the forums, I haven't learned my way around yet.

That is great info. I have been a little unhappy with the B sound since going with the lights and knowing the TC are a gauge heavier it might give me the umph I had with the 130 B string.

One question about the neck. I use a straight edge when changing string brands and then go from there with the bridge and tweak as needed if the neck needs it. Is this on par or am I way off track? I don't seem to have issues, no buzz and good height all the way up.

I do get confused when people speak of "neck relief" on the bass. I assume they are talking about more or less tension from the strings.

Don

[Tim Bishop]

Originally Posted by Don Edge

One question about the neck. I use a straight edge when changing string brands and then go from there with the bridge and tweak as needed if the neck needs it. Is this on par or am I way off track? I don't seem to have issues, no buzz and good height all the way up.

I do get confused when people speak of "neck relief" on the bass. I assume they are talking about more or less tension from the strings.

Don

Check this out. It may help you better understand.

http://www.smithbassforums.com/showthread.php?t=1094

[Tim Bishop]

Originally Posted by Don Edge

I have been a little unhappy with the B sound since going with the lights and knowing the TC are a gauge heavier it might give me the umph I had with the 130 B string.
Don

I know I would be unhappy with a light gauge B-string. I think you will be happier with the .130 B.

[Tim Bishop]

Originally Posted by Don Edge

I do get confused when people speak of "neck relief" on the bass. I assume they are talking about more or less tension from the strings.

Don

Depending on the gauge of strings you go with will determine where the neck will rest with those strings.

Think of relief in the neck using terms concave (inward bow or curvature) and convex (outward bow or curvature). A concave relieved neck will generally mean higher action. A convex relieved neck will generally mean lower action to the point of fret buzz up and down the neck. This is obviously not good. You need to find the appropriate point of neck relief, with the given gauge of stings of your choice, that gives you the action you are looking for within your playing style.

The adjustment to the neck is done with the truss rod. Making small adjustments until you reach the desired relief in the neck, thus, giving you the action you are looking for. Also, each individual bridge saddle is adjusted accordingly and to the radius of the fretboard (see post no. 5 above and the link I provided you for more detail).

When you select the strings of your choice and are happy with them, I would stay with them. Otherwise, be prepared to execute another set-up. If you are not comfortable doing set-ups (i.e. neck adjustments, bridge adjustments, etc.), find someone qualified who is.

[Don Edge]

Thanks Tim. All these years I have been doing it correctly. People just make sound so technical and difficult when talking about it. It is about feel and playing style. I adjusted the pickups and little closer to the B and E string and played yesterday. It sounded much better. I do think the 130 would be nicer. I will wait until these strings are toast. It won't take too long with the amount of playing that is happening right now.

Don