Starting a DB Project

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Ruben E garcia

I am thinking on doing the bass bar… it got crack at both ends it doesn’t look like its growing or its open… but it if recommended, may as well get it done now….

Well now seems like it’s a tough job… some people prefer to avoid to change the BB unless its 100% necessary… I can’t really tell if it need to be replace, because it’s too old or stiff… It does have a crack… that’s a bad sign…

Now stupid question… can it be shorten a little and inlay patch the ends??? Or it will be an abomination of my sick mind???

The bass is apart and will be edges as necessary to fit back when done. You do NOT want to take it apart again if after you string up the bass and the weakest area not the Old Bar splits more.

Carve out the bar and clean the bass since you might re-shape the top or not. You have the best view of that. Then repair the crack 100% after shaping top and then cleat it on top of the wood after fitting the bar along that surface but don't glue in bar. Then notch the fitted bar to go over the cleats and glue it down. Do not inlay the cleats as that will weaken the top. Everything should fit 100% with just finger pressure, no force. Then clamp to make a life long glue joint. All excess glue not needed will squeeze out. Don't be so scientific with the amount of glue.

The grain of the wood, especially the end grain by far will suck in some glue. What it doesn't need, it spits out. One time a saddle lifted on me after a repair. The Block was new, sucked in a lot of glue and the ebony came loose from the tail wire pulling it. Re-gluing fixed it as I did it myself in my shop. That, I had time and tools for. The restoration I didn't..

[Ruben E garcia]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

The bass is apart and will be edges as necessary to fit back when done. You do NOT want to take it apart again if after you string up the bass and the weakest area not the Old Bar splits more.

Carve out the bar and clean the bass since you might re-shape the top or not. You have the best view of that. Then repair the crack 100% after shaping top and then cleat it on top of the wood after fitting the bar along that surface but don't glue in bar. Then notch the fitted bar to go over the cleats and glue it down. Do not inlay the cleats as that will weaken the top. Everything should fit 100% with just finger pressure, no force. Then clamp to make a life long glue joint. All excess glue not needed will squeeze out. Don't be so scientific with the amount of glue.

The grain of the wood, especially the end grain by far will suck in some glue. What it doesn't need, it spits out. One time a saddle lifted on me after a repair. The Block was new, sucked in a lot of glue and the ebony came loose from the tail wire pulling it. Re-gluing fixed it as I did it myself in my shop. That, I had time and tools for. The restoration I didn't..

Thank you Ken for the detail explanation I was thinking on inlay patch bellow the BB (worng), I need to read about a little more about the BB replacement, So I am looking at SP patch, bass bar, block edges and Edges repair, ah and also cleats… I am going to be busy for a while

Ps I will let you guys know my plan in advantage just to be sure that I am in the right path

[Ken Smith]

This thread has been cleaned up by deleting the last several off-topic posts and its relative replies.

Ruben, you have the floor..

[Ruben E garcia]

In others news, I am currently working on a Home made Caliper with a deep throat, I think I need this tool to make the SP patch and a little finger plane and some gauges…PSS Peace and Love

[Ruben E garcia]

I am still working on the sound post patch, soon I will post some new pictures of my experiment, but for now I was looking for info about the patch online and I fond this info, I don’t really know is apply to an bass or a bass top I just though that I will be good to share it with you, it also have a second part..

[Matthew Tucker]

I find it easier to cut the patch out first, then trace the outline onto the back. I find it is easier then to carve the bed for the patch, keeping the edges crisp and clean.

[Ruben E garcia]

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

I find it easier to cut the patch out first, then trace the outline onto the back. I find it is easier then to carve the bed for the patch, keeping the edges crisp and clean.

Sure Mat but he also said to make a very small path with a 90 degrees angle... I know u rather do a big one about 10d, and that's ok, but it makes me wonder if what he do could apply to a db top also