Starting a DB Project

[Ruben E garcia]

Thank you for the feedback.... I got a question and this applies to SP patch and all...
I read that to get a good bounding you need to let the cleat sit on the top from one minute till the hide glue jell, and the using a hair dryer heat the glue again and then apply pressure to it...

Or I should just apply pressure to the cleat as fast as I can and clamp with good pressure, not too much but firm..

[Arnold Schnitzer]

Originally Posted by Ruben E garcia

Thank you for the feedback.... I got a question and this applies to SP patch and all...
I read that to get a good bounding you need to let the cleat sit on the top from one minute till the hide glue gel, and the using a hair dryer heat the glue again and then apply pressure to it...

Or I should just apply pressure to the cleat as fast as I can and clamp with good pressure, not too much but firm..

Yes, just glue it and clamp it. Don't worry about applying too much clamp pressure. Fine Woodworking had a great article a few years ago where they tested joints put together with varying amounts of clamp pressure, and different glues. What they discovered to everyone's surprise, is that there is no such thing as a "starved" glue joint. The high-pressure joints, though they squeezed out more of the glue, were actually stronger.

When you get ready to glue in your soundpost patch, make sure you size the wood of the bass top and the patch with thin hide glue, because there will be considerable end grain revealed. Without sizing, the glue will soak into the endgrain too much and the joint will eventually come apart. Also, if you are not using a counter form on the opposite side, you will need a lot of clamps, and you'll need to apply them quickly. Gluing down temporary cleats around the soundpost patch will keep it from sliding around when it's full of slippery glue.

[Ruben E garcia]

Originally Posted by Arnold Schnitzer

Yes, just glue it and clamp it. Don't worry about applying too much clamp pressure. Fine Woodworking had a great article a few years ago where they tested joints put together with varying amounts of clamp pressure, and different glues. What they discovered to everyone's surprise, is that there is no such thing as a "starved" glue joint. The high-pressure joints, though they squeezed out more of the glue, were actually stronger.

Yes I always though that too much pressure will squeeze the glue out….

Originally Posted by Arnold Schnitzer

When you get ready to glue in your soundpost patch, make sure you size the wood of the bass top and the patch with thin hide glue, because there will be considerable end grain revealed. Without sizing, the glue will soak into the endgrain too much and the joint will eventually come apart. Also, if you are not using a counter form on the opposite side, you will need a lot of clamps, and you'll need to apply them quickly. Gluing down temporary cleats around the soundpost patch will keep it from sliding around when it's full of slippery glue

1. So I should apply thin coat of glue in both sides top and SP patch…
2. The counter form you mean by the front of the Bass top right?
3. Temp Cleats around the SP patch like the Mathew’s Restoration…

[Pino Cazzaniga]

I think the faster the better. Hot hide glue is strong as it work at a molecular level. If it create a bond it will fail, as the glue itself is brittle. So it's better not to let it jell, but to clamp fast and with a good pressure.
This way the extra not needed amount of glue will go out from the joint.
If the glue jell too soon, maybe it is too thick, or the workshop is too cold.
A good joint, as far as glue thickness and temperature go, is when the surfaces don't slip, after rubbing, even before they are clamped.
Good luck, Ruben, you have a nice project there...
oops, sorry Arnold, I was typing while you was answering...

[Ruben E garcia]

Originally Posted by Pino Cazzaniga

I think the faster the better. Hot hide glue is strong as it work at a molecular level. If it create a bond it will fail, as the glue itself is brittle. So it's better not to let it jell, but to clamp fast and with a good pressure.
This way the extra not needed amount of glue will go out from the joint.
If the glue jell too soon, maybe it is too thick, or the workshop is too cold.
A good joint, as far as glue thickness and temperature go, is when the surfaces don't slip, after rubbing, even before they are clamped.
Good luck, Ruben, you have a nice project there...
oops, sorry Arnold, I was typing while you was answering...

That's 100% answer my question thanks... I though so but I wasn't sure… I guess sometimes you can’t believe all that you read… I will keep it simple