new back?

[Ken Smith]

From a structural standpoint I can see why Arnold prefers the 'new Back' route. For 'vintage' reasons, I prefer a high grade restoration. Flatbacks repaired or 'new' can have problems by design vs. climate alone. I would rather maintain an old repaired back than wait for a new one to implode. I have seen Flatback failures in both new and old so my vote is to keep the bass as original as possible.

[Matthew Tucker]

You often see old basses with just the top piece of the break replaced; usually a piece of purfling is run into the joint to make it look intentional.

Perhaps, if the upper part is the worst, and the lower part of the back is relatively sound, you could just replace the top piece and button? Butt-glued against a suitable brace, it will be just as strong as the ribs are glued to the blocks ...

Actually, to me the picture of the top part doesn't look so bad from here; if you can't bring the crack together, you could glue in a maple fillet to fill the crack, cleat behind, a new brace, a pufling strip across the break and its almost as good as new. Well, maybe not new ...

[Matthew Tucker]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

I would rather maintain an old repaired back than wait for a new one to implode.

Surely, that comment doesn't apply to a flat-back replaced by a luthier who knows what he or she is doing??

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Matthew Tucker

Surely, that comment doesn't apply to a flat-back replaced by a luthier who knows what he or she is doing??

Matt, in all due respect, living here in the northeast, Flatbacks do not do as well as Roundbacks. Ask any Repairman and he will tell you. Older basses have as good or better chance of survival. If already old with repairs around the instrument then we know where the instrument has relieved its stress from. If a new back or new bass, we are yet to find out but we will no doubt in these parts.

I am not making guesses here when I put statements like this on line. Having played and owned scores of Basses around New York and more recently Pennsylvania, both Northeastern US States, I can tell you from 40 years of 'adult' experience what Maple does in this climate. Even in building Electric Basses we see problems with Maple movement in usage. With a Flatback being so long and wide as a whole, it is bound for movement and if something in or on the Back doesn't give, it gives somewhere else.

Roundbacks are not immune either and this problem is also not exclusive to Maple. Out of about 8 older basses or so I recently brought over from Europe, two of them had Poplar Flat Backs. These moved no less when hitting the NE USA Winter climate than did any of the Maple ones. Another example is a Roundback English made Hawkes that lived for several decades in the South East of this country. It was restored here and then sold within a year to a professional player up here. Adjusting to the NE climate was evident each of the two Winters so far by seams popping on the Back and Top joints as well as one new Top crack from the Bass seam just not giving quick enough.

Unless a Bass falls down a flight of stairs, cracks in the Back like the Bass shown above is from movement and shrinkage. The amount of split is not direct evidence of the amount of shrinkage but rather the amount of stress relieved when it 'does' crack. Maple has irregular grain and does what it needs to do. When attached in case of a Bass, it takes its hostages with it at times like when the Top or Ribs split from the Back moving and 'not' coming apart first.

Old Basses? Fix them when you can. New Basses? Hope for the best. New parts on old Basses? Only when the old part is no longer repairable.

On some of my Basses, we tried a different Back Brace system to allow the back to 'float' more within its destined movement and therefore survive these 'seesaw' Winters we have over here.

I am talking to Arnold now about a 'new' Bass for myself and possibly a being modified copy of my Storioni. Still, we are even discussing making it with a Flatback but with this other type of bracing system. A Roundback moving when new will either pop a seam or a split a Rib or even the Top if the first two do not give first. Knowing that going forward I am just as confident with a Flatback made from old seasoned wood and this new bracing idea.

My vote once again Kurt is to fix the Back you have. It will match the bass better and once fixed, will look better than a New back and make that bass much more marketable to professional players. Try the new Bracing system that Arnold uses when the Back is up to that stage of restoration.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

To amplify Ken's point above--the main problem is that flatbacked basses usually have crossbars running 90 degrees to the back wood. This is considered a no-no in woodworking, because wood expands/contracts mainly across its width, and cross-grained joints will blow themselves apart when the weather changes. (Or, if the joint does not fail, cracks and warpage will be the result.) Crossbars are the reason flat-backs fail.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Arnold Schnitzer

To amplify Ken's point above--the main problem is that flatbacked basses usually have crossbars running 90 degrees to the back wood. This is considered a no-no in woodworking, because wood expands/contracts mainly across its width, and cross-grained joints will blow themselves apart when the weather changes. (Or, if the joint does not fail, cracks and warpage will be the result.) Crossbars are the reason flat-backs fail.

Sounds like Job security to me Maestro..

I have seen a new maker doing this still and 'way' over bracing the Back as well. These are not very expensive basses. When they fail, the owners will be 'buying' the bass all over again..

I think a person should be very experienced in making basses before he starts building them. This way, 'mistakes of the future' might easily be avoided..

[Ken McKay]

You can prevent future cracking by proper cross grain gluing, done at proper relative humidity, when glued with overly dried back wood, with a dome shape. Plus, you have to know your wood! Live and sleep with it is best.

[Arnold Schnitzer]

Originally Posted by Ken McKay

You can prevent future cracking by proper cross grain gluing, done at proper relative humidity, when glued with overly dried back wood, with a dome shape. Plus, you have to know your wood! Live and sleep with it is best.

Ken, I agree that controlling the moisture content of the wood, and gluing up in a low RH atmosphere helps, but there will still be problems if the bass lives in an environment where the temperature and humidity go through large swings. Not to mention the fact that gluing in the crossbars re-introduces water into the wood. Owners of flat-backed basses with crossbars (who live in temperate areas) should expect occasional loose braces and cracks; it's par for the course.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Ken McKay

You can prevent future cracking by proper cross grain gluing, done at proper relative humidity, when glued with overly dried back wood, with a dome shape. Plus, you have to know your wood! Live and sleep with it is best.

Here are some links of the Backs of some of the Basses that I have, have come and gone or are in restoration as we speak that have had Back Repairs/Restorations due to the reasons stated above. Depending on the Bass and the situation, the Bracing system was either done as before, modified to a different style or was modified already and just left as-is. Still, the repair history of every bass shown indicates that in the Northeast, a Flatback can be hazardous to its own health.

Here they are in no particular order.
one , two , three , four , five , six , seven , eight , nine , ten

A Bass can be 200 years old or brand new. Once it goes thru a Northeast Winter or two and has never been repaired or modified you will see what things are possible. Roundbacks do a little better but they move as well.

With all of that said, some of my favorite Basses are Flatbacks and I continue to buy them regardless.

[Martin Sheridan]

I have seen a few flat back basses with only one brace in the back for the soundpost and they seem to have held up very well.
Also, I think the X Brace is supposed to help the cracking problem, but I haven't tried it myself. Didn't someone say that Prescott introduced the X Brace?
Generally I prefer flat back basses.