Thinning a thick ?

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Thomas Erickson

Seems to me like in the case of a good strong neck joint then that the brunt of an impact is going to be focused on the point of the neck where it's already weakest. Does anybody think that maybe a neck without graphite, one that can absorb and evenly distribute shock, might actually be safer in the case of an otherwise well made and healthy bass?

And as for the stiffness, if the neck is thick enough, isn't it going to be stiff enough to not deflect under tension

I don't mean to be negative about it or anything, I just tend to have my doubts about graphite being able to improve a nice thick neck made from good maple; I can certainly see how it would be nice in a bass guitar neck though!

If you ever experienced the exact same bass before and after having the Graphite rod/s put in you might have a different viewpoint.

Several of my Double basses that now have CF graphite rods in them didn't before and now they do. Making or leaving a neck thicker or too thick to play comfortably just to keep it strong is the not the way to go in my opinion.

There is more than one kind and one grade within each method of making these rods. There is also more then one way to install them. Not all Graphite is created equal. Not all neck mods with graphite are equal between luthiers either.

I discuss the method of putting the Rods in with the few lutheirs that do this and on my basses, they are done just about the same way I would do it.

I prefer the Graphite rods in all my new or restored necks and I have had quite a few pass thru my inventory in the last few years.

On what's best for shock when you bang your bass, nothing. Don't bang the bass!

[Thomas Erickson]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

If you ever experienced the exact same bass before and after having the Graphite rod/s put in you might have a different viewpoint.

Several of my Double basses that now have CF graphite rods in them didn't before and now they do. Making or leaving a neck thicker or too thick to play comfortably just to keep it strong is the not the way to go in my opinion.

There is more than one kind and one grade within each method of making these rods. There is also more then one way to install them. Not all Graphite is created equal. Not all neck mods with graphite are equal between luthiers either.

I discuss the method of putting the Rods in with the few lutheirs that do this and on my basses, they are done just about the same way I would do it.

I prefer the Graphite rods in all my new or restored necks and I have had quite a few pass thru my inventory in the last few years.

On what's best for shock when you bang your bass, nothing. Don't bang the bass!

I'll take your word that the graphite make a tonal improvement, since as you say, I haven't had the chance to compare a bass before/after the modification.

So you're of the opinion that in order to make a wood neck structurally sound, it has to be too thick in terms of playability? And also that it isn't then an issue of technique on the player's part? For the majority of my years playing I've worked to drive my left hand with everything but the thumb, which I think most will agree is the logical and healthy approach, and I find that the thickness of a neck had little impact on the playability of a bass. On the other hand, I find a particular, distinct lack of tone and response in thin-necked bass that worsens as the necks get thinner, and also that thin necks are rather fatiguing to play for long periods.

As for not banging the bass... well, maybe that works for the player who never takes the instrument out of the house, but last I check most "working" bass get beat pretty well. And a broken bass means no pay+repair bill...

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Thomas Erickson

I'll take your word that the graphite make a tonal improvement, since as you say, I haven't had the chance to compare a bass before/after the modification.

So you're of the opinion that in order to make a wood neck structurally sound, it has to be too thick in terms of playability? And also that it isn't then an issue of technique on the player's part? ...........

No, that's not exactly what I said. I said (I think) that making a neck thich FOR stability is not the best way and too thick can be harder to play.

How many species or varieties of maple Neck woods have you felt on basses?

Some are harder than others. Some are too soft period. Thin fingerboards are often either the sign of a weak neck that needed dressing after dressing from the neck warping under it or will allow the neck to forward bow over time.

I have had and do have basses with necks that are thicker than I personally like. Unless it's my personal 'not for sale' bass, I leave it alone if it's within the guidelines. If too thick period, it will be carved down to a normal size neck.

[Thomas Erickson]

Got it!

I don't think there's anything wrong with shaping a neck to suit one's preference, since it's not such an integral part of the instrument; same for adding graphite or whatever. My only concern, really, is with the addition of graphite increasing the odds of major damage to the top block etc. when (not if) the bass sustains trauma... Even if it's more likely that the neck breaks at the top, well, again, it's still just a neck.

[Thomas Erickson]

Originally Posted by wayne holmes

I still maintain that a CF rod is a must to properly fix a broken neck- I would vote that all basses come with them already installed when they are made.

The proper fix for a broken neck is a neck graft; a new bass, properly made with a good maple neck and thick ebony fingerboard doesn't need any reinforcement to be structurally sound - your post doesn't really make sense.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Thomas Erickson

The proper fix for a broken neck is a neck graft; a new bass, properly made with a good maple neck and thick ebony fingerboard doesn't need any reinforcement to be structurally sound - your post doesn't really make sense.

The Graphite will even the tone out and help your neck stay straight and the FB last longer.

The Basses I am talking about would never get repairs to the the neck other than a temporary fix. That would cheapen and devalue the bass if left that way. These basses I am referring to are in the upper range of mid 5 to 6 figures in price.

I have over 40 years of playing basses and carrying them around. I have bumped and banged my share of basses. Never once did a neck break, with or without graphite. When a bass falls the playing area of the neck is the strongest usually which is also supported by an ebony fingerboard and a thick one if it's my bass. Scroll breaks are far more common than neck breaks and block area breaks are the second most damaged area I see on old basses. It depends on the fall. Graphite is not the problem here, people are.

[Thomas Erickson]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

The Graphite will even the tone out and help your neck stay straight and the FB last longer.

I can see where the graphite might keep the neck from bowing, and prevent the FB from needing dressing because of it.

I don't think the graphite is going to keep the neck from twisting though; it seems to me like it might even contribute to it.

How exactly does adding graphite to the neck "even out" the tone of the bass? Last I checked graphite isn't a tone wood, nor is whatever substance is used to glue it into the neck...