Integral bass bar; lose it or use it?

[Brian Glassman]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

Well, without seeing the bass it's hard to make that call. It depends on a lot of things including the current condition of the top and the sound of the bass.

You will then have to weigh-in the estimated sound/structure change vs. the repair cost/bass value before and after equation.

Got a Crystal Ball handy?

I agree that Arnold would be the best one to ask for many reasons, some stated. He knows the bass, worked on it and knows the market. Taking suggestions blindly here from the gallery is not the most scientific way to come to decision. You are looking at spending a fair amount of money here. Once the bass is opened it would be a surprise to me that ONLY the Bar and Rib would get worked on. You never know what you will find inside.

I hear ya. I'll try to post pics soon. THNX, Bri

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Brian Glassman

I hear ya. I'll try to post pics soon. THNX, Bri

Ok, the last factor. In my opinion, a REAL bassbar is far superior to an integral one. Also, a real Bar if put in properly will not promote cracks like the integral bar does.

Another factor is the thickness of the Top. Basses like yours are often machine made with the integral bar left in. The plates are often left too thick. Re-graduation of an overly thick top also improves the depth and response of the bass. This to be determined by a qualified luthier only. Arnold and Jeff B. are my two choices for this kind of Job in the NYC area.

[Brian Glassman]

Originally Posted by Brian Glassman

I hear ya. I'll try to post pics soon. THNX, Bri

Here they are; http://picasaweb.google.com/10778581..._03caQxLqZzwE#

In one close up of the lower E side 'F' you can see a glimpse of the bass bar.

In the pic of the wood grain I'm trying to show the partial knot near the seam of the 2-3 piece top. This is under the over stand and I believe the bar has some of this knot in it as well.

[Ken Smith]

You mentioned that it's a nice sounding bass. Also, I don't see anything that's currently broken. Considering the value of the bass as-is, the value fully restored (slightly higher), the cost you have into the bass to date (I have no idea what you've spent on it) and.. the total combined cost IF you have it restored (will not be cheap), my vote from the information given is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

If and when it ever breaks and needs the Top off, do everything you can. For now, it doesn't seem worth it to spend the money needed to restore or rather, re-build.

[Brian Glassman]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

You mentioned that it's a nice sounding bass. Also, I don't see anything that's currently broken. Considering the value of the bass as-is, the value fully restored (slightly higher), the cost you have into the bass to date (I have no idea what you've spent on it) and.. the total combined cost IF you have it restored (will not be cheap), my vote from the information given is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

If and when it ever breaks and needs the Top off, do everything you can. For now, it doesn't seem worth it to spend the money needed to restore or rather, re-build.

Thanks Ken. Care to venture an opinion on origin/ region/ maker(s) etc? It used to have hat peg tuners-BTW

I've never posted pics of this bass before.

Bri