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#1
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![]() Well Ruben that one looks very OK to me as a project restoration.
But yes you could make a cannotto/savart design and you don't need autocad to do it. Just scale it up by hand! It would be easier to build than a conventional DB. However, I suspect that when you have finished, you will regret not having spent more time and money on making a real DB! |
#2
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![]() THat doesn't even look like it needs much restoration, just a little work to put it together... maybe a nice project!
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#3
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![]() Oh, and if you're like me, trying to put basses into something like autoCAD is about the biggest waste of time ever! But, I'm no engineer either; I have a scientific calculator but I barely know how to use it...
![]() Actually, that brings me to another comment - make a point of trying to draw and carve every day - even if it's just sketches and whittling it will help develop your eye, as well as coordination, muscles, sense of proportions, understanding of wood, everything. Plus it forces you to sharpen your tools a lot. Kind of like how just playing basses and listening to music all the time will make you a better musician, even at times when you're not practicing for hours on end every day. |
#4
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![]() U guys know anything about this particular DB?
from the picture I cant tell if is a ply or carved top http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/msg/2025308543.html Last edited by Ruben E garcia; 10-26-2010 at 10:05 PM. |
#5
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![]() I'd say go have a look at it, if close by... Can't tell from the photos on the ad if it is solid or laminated.
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#6
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![]() Quote:
but about the maker: Curt Wunderlich Detroit. Made in Czechosovakia.. does it ring a bell? |
#7
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![]() In my opinion you need to get (and read) the Violin Repair book by Hans Weisshar. It is considered the "bible" for string instrument repair, and will not teach you bad habits. My thanks to Jeff Bollbach for turning me on to this great resource many years ago.
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#8
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![]() Quote:
Now I need a good book about the subject… Now the front is carve for sure and the back I think it have to be carve too (In my opinion), why because the curve, and the joint in the middle, you can also see in the label picture the little squares running thru all the back plate. Well the dude say it was 41” not too sure I will measure and I’ll let you know |
#9
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![]() Ruben, when a master luthier like Arnold Schnitzer suggests something, you really need to take it seriously and thank him for taking the time to help you. If you're planning on being a luthier that does fine work, you are probably going to have to invest some money in your education. Find the book used if you can. Why don't you look into apprenticing with someone?
I only jump in here because I know the futile feeling of trying to help people on forums and then either being rebuffed or ignored. Good luck with your project. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
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#11
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![]() Quote:
For now it makes more sense to restore, to play, own a DB and then try to build one… PS… how is the cornerless Castelvecchio doing???, I love the looks of that DB… seems a little less complicated to make that an traditional DB? Not that I’m trying to make one… at least not yet J I got really inspired by your project |
#12
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![]() It's going just fine. My best sounding bass. But in fact it was a little harder to make, as the rib garland is not as rigid as a "normal" bass with corners.
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#13
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![]() Quote:
I other news I'm inquiring more info about the Craig list bass, I am waiting for them to answer, seems like a nice one |
#14
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![]() Meet my project... I got the craiglist bass, the guy who sold it, was a very nice guy... he thinks is a pre-WWII bass... looks old to me... but what I know... is top carve... spruce I assume... back carve... maple I think... got some ebony trin, in one side in the other side.... wood filler, got some cracks on the ribs and there is a patch on one rib also... has a crack at the bottom front, looks like someone made some repairs on it... i dont see any repairs inside the bass...
here are some pictures...PS the guy also gave me the sound post... and a nice ebony tailpiece ![]() You can see the cracks at the bottom front ![]() Ebony end Pin ![]() ![]() the back has a litle opening too ![]() I dont know if you can see there is a crack on this rip ![]() a patch ![]() the machines are very smooth ![]() ![]() |
#15
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![]() the neck looks fine, some figured wood, maple right???
![]() The ebony trim ![]() ![]() the front ![]() ![]() ![]() the back ![]() ![]() Now the question is... did i do good? any comments??? Where do i start... I want to make the bass playable... I am more concern about the playability of the bass than the looks... I think the distress look with a litle TLC is better than a new looking bass.. I guess I dont want to make unesesary repairs, that at the end decrement the quality of this instrument.... I LOVE IT.... one more thing I guess I need a book that taugh me how to repair DB's... what u guys recomend? Last edited by Ruben E garcia; 10-31-2010 at 07:23 PM. |
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