French Bass Brace advice

[Adrian Levi]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

Massive Peer pressure? I just gave you the advice based on seeing many French basses that were improved that way. One center brace, one lower and one upper usually and possible depending on the condition of the back and length, 2 upper ones. One at the bend and one at the blocks. The lower and mid/block brace to be shaped like a bassbar. The center is flat maybe 4-5" wide, 1/2" tall and the upper bend brace maybe 2" wide and beveled. Tastefully shaped, not lumber-like 2x4s.

The Center joint may need to be re-jointed and then, a strip placed in there to fill the gap. Also, how is the overhang of the Top on the bottom bouts over the Ribs? Overlaps or more flush like? If Flush, cut the ribs at the block and tuck them in slightly shorter. The lower corner blocks may need trimming under the Ribs as over time, the string pressure pulls the lower block forward bending the back at the bottom under that wide stair-step brace as well as twisting the corner blocks inwards. This is a common fault with old French basses and correction is not easy. The bass needs to be modified. Just like with blockless basses, if made with corner-cutting, money-saving techniques, it needs expensive corrections in restoration.

Just guessing here what you may need.

Now thats interesting info ( the peer pressure is now at boiling point ) ....

When I sit the ribs on the back , the fit is good with approx 3-5mm overlap all round . Surprisingly with all the non original glues , cleats etc the bass seems to have regained its shape to a large extent . I will remove the middle bar and use it for the top repairs , there is a lot of wood to be had from it.
Ken when you talk about cutting the ribs at the 'block' to get a good plate fit are you talking about the end block ?

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Adrian Levi

Now thats interesting info ( the peer pressure is now at boiling point ) ....

When I sit the ribs on the back , the fit is good with approx 3-5mm overlap all round . Surprisingly with all the non original glues , cleats etc the bass seems to have regained its shape to a large extent . I will remove the middle bar and use it for the top repairs , there is a lot of wood to be had from it.
Ken when you talk about cutting the ribs at the 'block' to get a good plate fit are you talking about the end block ?

Yes, but only if needed. I have a Bass that needs that now as well as needing some trim fit at the corner blocks from twisting as well. The Top is inside the Ribs now sitting on the internal half-edging with is stepped outwards to overlap the ribs.

[Adrian Levi]

In this case where the back and top are off at the same time , which should go on first , and is it ever ok to have to push the ribs in a bit whilst gluing and clamping if they are a little out of position in a few places?

Ken also if the ribs get cut down at the end block , then surely the top overhang will differ slightly i.e , maybe more overhang in the middle of the lower bout than at the end block due to the top not being exactly shaped to the rib dimensions anymore ...

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Adrian Levi

In this case where the back and top are off at the same time , which should go on first , and is it ever ok to have to push the ribs in a bit whilst gluing and clamping if they are a little out of position in a few places?

Ken also if the ribs get cut down at the end block , then surely the top overhang will differ slightly i.e , maybe more overhang in the middle of the lower bout than at the end block due to the top not being exactly shaped to the rib dimensions anymore ...

You tool both the Top and back off at the same time? Good luck with that. Generally I see the Top done first and then put on the Ribs and then the back off and done. If both off, get the Top done and Back on first and see if or how much you have to tuck in the Ribs at the block for even overhang.

If the Back is less work, then do that first since you have a mess to deal with either way from taking it all apart at once. Good luck!

[Adrian Levi]

Originally Posted by Ken Smith

You tool both the Top and back off at the same time? Good luck with that. Generally I see the Top done first and then put on the Ribs and then the back off and done. If both off, get the Top done and Back on first and see if or how much you have to tuck in the Ribs at the block for even overhang.

If the Back is less work, then do that first since you have a mess to deal with either way from taking it all apart at once. Good luck!

Jeeez , now I feel like a war criminal...

Maybe I never had an option but to take the back off !!!

Firstly the bass came with the top off and in 3 pieces due to the fact that the back was glued on with a &^%&^ load of epoxy . Whoever epoxied the back made sure that the ribs were forced in by a good few mm all round , making sure that the opposing pressure on the top would pull it apart .
So what was I to do , rebuild the top to accommodate a very unique and asymmetrical rib shape and then once that was glued on remove the back and rebuild the back to mirror the top ??
My intentions are simply to learn as much as possible about repairing and maintaining basses.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Adrian Levi

Jeeez , now I feel like a war criminal...

Maybe I never had an option but to take the back off !!!

Firstly the bass came with the top off and in 3 pieces due to the fact that the back was glued on with a &^%&^ load of epoxy . Whoever epoxied the back made sure that the ribs were forced in by a good few mm all round , making sure that the opposing pressure on the top would pull it apart .
So what was I to do , rebuild the top to accommodate a very unique and asymmetrical rib shape and then once that was glued on remove the back and rebuild the back to mirror the top ??
My intentions are simply to learn as much as possible about repairing and maintaining basses.

Thanks for clearing that up.. Good luck with the project.