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#1
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![]() For what I know, that is not a lot J or I may say for what I have read, solid aluminum adjusters made from one piece of metal are the overall best adjusters to have install in your bass…
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#2
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![]() Quote:
I prefer turning with some kind of grip on then rather than the sharp gnarled metal tearing up my fingers. The Walnut modified adjusters from the Shen guys (Paul S.) are my favorite overall. Next are the black Ebony/Plastic? ones that several Luthiers here use. I forget what they are called but Arnold uses them. The smaller Aluminum or even brass wheeled ones are just to hard to turn most of the times. |
#3
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![]() i like these: http://www.moser-klangwerkstatt.com/...produkt1.shtml
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#4
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![]() I've always wondered about these - can you give some idea how good they are? Or what experience you have had with them? Thanks!
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#5
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![]() i have the mosers on my main bass, the titanium version, and have also one in aluminium with an integrated full circle.
i like that you can adjust the feet seperatly. i like to experiment a lot with strings, incl. mixing different G/D and A/E (for example plain gut/spiro or oliv/evah). the independence of the bridge feet allow me to lift the G/D and lower the E/A. plus: they are absolutely easy to turn under full pressure. they are made very precise, like a swiss watch movement |
#6
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![]() Quote:
![]() Last edited by Ruben E garcia; 02-08-2011 at 09:01 PM. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
He is not MY mentor now or in the future, ever. Just a guy that found time to write a book. It's best that you and others know this difference. So on a bass 6 feet tall, 1/4=2/8 is better than 3/8 to vibrate? So 1/8" difference is better on a 6ft tall bass over 2 feet wide and deep as 3 cellos. 1/8th inch? Maybe I can sell you a bridge if you believe that! The Brooklyn Bridge maybe? Interested? I'll let you pay it off monthly.. ![]() |
#8
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![]() [quote=Ken Smith;21910
Maybe I can sell you a bridge if you believe that! The Brooklyn Bridge maybe? Interested? I'll let you pay it off monthly.. ![]() Ruben , don't listen to Ken there is NO way that a bridge of that size would work on any bass that I know of ,not to mention transport costs a custom made case etc etc. |
#9
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![]() Did you know the Brooklyn Bridge sits on White Pine caissons that were dug by hand into the mud under the East River, and that several men died of Caisson Disease because of all the time they spent under pressurized conditions? Caisson Disease is commonly called "The Bends". Just thought you folks might enjoy a tidbit of useless but interesting info. How long will those chunks of pine resist rot?
Speaking of chunks of pine, I've had experience with just about every type of bass bridge adjuster. I agree with Traeger in that 1/4 x 20 single-piece are my favorite. However, I am leary of any person who deems himself a "Master Luthier", and I'm leary of untested claims about what vibrates and what doesn't. Besides, would you want the adjuster to vibrate, or would you just want it to pass the vibrations through? Ooh, cue the Theramin... |
#10
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![]() Quote:
Hi Arnold so you prefer ¼”x20 Aluminum Adjusters…? Can you tell us why they work best for you? My first idea would be, “that the most efficient way to transfer vibrations from the top of the bridge to the bridge foots is not actually use the same material (Maple)” and that won’t change that much the sound of the bass… but that’s not it… I wonder why? |
#11
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![]() Quote:
![]() Think he was talking about Chuck...... Peace and love... |
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