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#1
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![]() Cleaned up, clamped together and allow to dry
![]() Not glued yet, but the crack seems to pull together OK ![]() |
#2
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![]() Looks great; interesting to see what the original varnish has done over the years.
I'm curious what you're using as a steam source? |
#3
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![]() I get my steam from Womble. He now has an extension tube on his snozzle.
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#4
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![]() Glad to see you back at work on this massive job, Matthew. I've been anxious for you to get rolling again as I find this saga extremely fascinating-I've had a bass undergo major work a couple of times, and consider myself pretty knowledgeable for a non-luthier, but this sort of crack-by-crack documentation of a full restoration is an education for all of us, especially when it's done with so much care.
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#5
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![]() Quote:
However I spend a lot of time thinking about how to approach these sorts of tasks, and I think I'm getting OK results. Sometimes I wish I had someone to chat to about it though! Last edited by Matthew Tucker; 08-10-2011 at 07:36 PM. |
#6
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![]() Any updates, Matthew?
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#7
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![]() Steve, you keep me honest, don't you?
I have made a little progress on the button repair since last posting but nothing I want to post here yet. I want to make sure it works! Will get onto it soon. But I have four school basses in at the moment and have to get them out of the way by end of the month. By the way everyone I'm looking for recommendations for a small endpin model to replace the crap these small school basses are fitted with. I'd use an ULSA if given the choice, but school budgets creak a bit when I mention the price of these and there's a lot of reaming to do. |
#8
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![]() thanks Brian they look quite solid.
On this occasion, the schools agreed to pay for the ULSA pins. |
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