5 string neck graft or not?

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Mike Weems

1. Nominal body length 43.5“
2. The string length is roughly 41.5inchs(1054.10mm)
3. Width of upper bout 19 7/8”
4. Width @ C bout 14 ¾”
5. Width @ lower bout 25”
6. Rib depth @ end block 7 5/8”
7. Rib depth @ back cut 7 3/8”
8. Rib depth @ neck block 6 ¼”
9. F-stop 23”
10. Chin of neck to heel 14.5”
11. Neck length from frnt edge of nut to end 17 3/8”
Sorry about that.

This is more then the basics but, it is a 3/4 and sound is an issue for 5s. I have a 3/4 (maybe) that is a 5er from birth and it is quite a boomer but, born as such. Compare the numbers to your measurements. http://www.kensmithbasses.com/doublebasses/5string/

Still, if this was a 4-string and I wanted or needed to convert a bass to a 5er, this would NOT be the one to convert.

I have a huge English bass, born as a 4 and recently converted to a 5er and then not long after back to a 4. It's an organ and stands up to any bass. This would be the size you want for a 5er. http://www.kensmithbasses.com/doublebasses/tarr/

For reference, here's a bass we converted from a 4; http://www.kensmithbasses.com/doublebasses/mystery2/

And here's one that came in as a 5 and sounded even better with the B lifted off; http://www.kensmithbasses.com/doublebasses/euro5/

Both were fairly new basses antiqued to look older. The sound was there. If your bass is a commercial sized 3/4 and made and intended to be a 4-string, keep it as a 4-string. Not all basses do well as 5s. Many of the old 4s were born as 3s and I have and have had many of those as well. 4-strings is the norm' so stay with that and play it safe.

[Mike Weems]

Thanks again for all the info. I will do just that

[Robert J Spear]

Unless I misread Mike's original post, the bass has already been converted. Yes? No? To answer the original question, width at the nut should be 51 - 52 (I'm European-trained so I'm a millimeters guy) at the least. Might be tough to graft a wider neck on the old scroll. Ken's right in that modern string technology allows the string spacing to be narrower at the nut, which will work to your favor if you convert the bass. I also suspect that making the fingerboard extend over the sides of the neck is one of those ideas that probably sounds better than it looks or feels. Can't say for sure because I've never done it. I think you might be seeing a negative domino effect setting up here.

In my opinion, for whatever it's worth, the body at 1100 is getting pretty small to reinforce a low B. Most worrisome will be the additional downward pressure on the top caused by modern steel strings. Top grads at 9 are about as low as I would dare go with the extra string pressure unless you know the wood well.

Five-string basses are alive and well in pockets in this country, but you'll probably sell 100 4-stringers for every five-stringer. I also think a number of players are getting tired of the problems with C-extensions, and my solution is to play a bass tuned in fifths. How great an idea this is I won't elaborate on any further since I'm still playing in fourths on the increasingly rare times that I actually play any more.

[Mike Weems]

Thanks Robert that just reinforcess all the info that Ken and Arrnold came up with and Yes this bass had indeed already been converted. I will take it back to a 4-string. When it is complete I will come back to this thread and post some pics.

[Mike Weems]

Insrument come out great thanks again for the help. I have a flat back in horrific condition and not sure of it's time and origin. I will post photos soon.

[Ken Smith]

Now that I see a better pic of the top with the purfling going around, combined with that round back, I think this is possibly a Saxon Bass more so than Czech. Similar basses were made on both sides of the border but with that Purfling, I have to go with German. That purfling was done to imitate the French basses of the late 19th and more so early 20th century. I don't recall seeing any of that from the Bohemian side of the border. That is more a German bass than Bohemian with that Top and purfling style.

I would like to see the outside of the back, the upper half with the neck button. That will confirm my theory.

[Mike Weems]

Thank you so much for the info. These are the best photos that I have of this bass concerning the button. The bass was purchased just as I was finishing it so I do not have it in the shop at this time. The costumer that purchased it is coming back in, as she wants a different flavor string than I provided. I will get better close of the back at that time.

P.S. I found this forum to be invaluable.