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Old 05-24-2007, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Bishop View Post
my typical setting would be Panning 100% to the front P/U (love that better-than-vintage tone!), volume ALWAYS maxed out, S/P Switches up, Bass, Midrange, and Treble virtually flat, unless I need a taste of any of the BMT (I find there is an incredible amount of tonal headroom here, so, adjustments (+/-) are minimal).

If you're panned all the way to the neck pickup then only 1 switch matters!

I'll set mine up like this tonight and see how it sounds.
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Old 05-24-2007, 11:50 AM
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Volume: all the way
Pkups: middle of the road
High: 2 oclock
Mids: flat
Low: 2-3 oclock

Eden head: flaaaaaaat!
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Old 05-24-2007, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Pruitt View Post
Volume: all the way
Pkups: middle of the road
High: 2 oclock
Mids: flat
Low: 2-3 oclock

Eden head: flaaaaaaat!
Now guys, keep me straight here: On all the knobs on the Smith, you're considering the indentation to be "12 o'clock" position, correct?
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronson Hall View Post
Now guys, keep me straight here: On all the knobs on the Smith, you're considering the indentation to be "12 o'clock" position, correct?

Ronson, yes. Actually it is known as "center detent" position and that would obviously apply to the BMT settings only.
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronson Hall View Post
Now guys, keep me straight here: On all the knobs on the Smith, you're considering the indentation to be "12 o'clock" position, correct?

The "notch" should be pointing straight up if you're looking at the face of the bass. Imagine looking at someone who is sitting down playing the bass. You're looking at the front of the bass, right side up, neck pointing to the right (3:00). The notch should be pointing at the ceiling, or 12:00 on a clock face.



As an aside, Ken, do you use different pots on lefty basses or do they operate on the same clockwise=up idea as the righty basses?
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Faulkner View Post
The "notch" should be pointing straight up if you're looking at the face of the bass. Imagine looking at someone who is sitting down playing the bass. You're looking at the front of the bass, right side up, neck pointing to the right (3:00). The notch should be pointing at the ceiling, or 12:00 on a clock face.



As an aside, Ken, do you use different pots on lefty basses or do they operate on the same clockwise=up idea as the righty basses?
Thanks, Tim & Bob.

Incidentally, I'm also gettting used to having a "mid pot" as I have been a lifetime bass & treble pot guy. I've started off like Tim Pruitt: Mids, flat!
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:17 AM
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This one for me is easy. First of all I play/endorse Eden amplification. I use a WT550/WT400/WT1000 with ant combination of 210XST 4ohm/ dual 212XLT 4ohms and a 112XLT. My head are usually set flat.


My 5M tiger maple fretted has "no" extra switches just 3 band tone. I use it %95 of the time with the eq disengaged (by-passed). If I slap I do engage the eq with the mid control at about 2 O'clock. This adds just enough body to keep a slap tone fat.

My Fretless walnut 5M is also run with the eq by pass and no extra switches, just the stock tone controls. It is huge and growly with NO eq. so I don't use it. If I am doing more of a fusion thing I do run %75 bridge with a slight ( bass at about 1 o"clock and mids about 1:30-2 O'clock) for a little more growly gut to the bridge pickup. Ken was amazed when he built my fretless when I dod not opt for the extra switches. He asked on 4 occassions if I wanted them. He is a master in every way when it comes to this whole building thing. He asked what kind of tome I wanted and I told him I want it to sound like my tiger maple 5 but with a little darker sound. He said walnut is the way. I like lighter colored woods but I trusted him and the outcome still blows my mind.
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:52 AM
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Cool Really.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Michaels View Post
This one for me is easy. First of all I play/endorse Eden amplification. I use a WT550/WT400/WT1000 with ant combination of 210XST 4ohm/ dual 212XLT 4ohms and a 112XLT. My head are usually set flat.


My 5M tiger maple fretted has "no" extra switches just 3 band tone. I use it %95 of the time with the eq disengaged (by-passed). If I slap I do engage the eq with the mid control at about 2 O'clock. This adds just enough body to keep a slap tone fat.

My Fretless walnut 5M is also run with the eq by pass and no extra switches, just the stock tone controls. It is huge and growly with NO eq. so I don't use it. If I am doing more of a fusion thing I do run %75 bridge with a slight ( bass at about 1 o"clock and mids about 1:30-2 O'clock) for a little more growly gut to the bridge pickup. Ken was amazed when he built my fretless when I dod not opt for the extra switches. He asked on 4 occassions if I wanted them. He is a master in every way when it comes to this whole building thing. He asked what kind of tome I wanted and I told him I want it to sound like my tiger maple 5 but with a little darker sound. He said walnut is the way. I like lighter colored woods but I trusted him and the outcome still blows my mind.
Dennis, just makin sure I am clear; when you say "eq by pass", you are saying that you play with the Smith in Passive Mode (i.e. volume knob pulled up)?
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