Some questions about a bass

[Ken Smith]

Ok.. With the pics and the numbers I think I know a little more now. Your Bridge is a good height but the neckstand is still shallow. The Wedge is common because it is easier to do than remove the neck, add a button and re-fit the neck. That would be better but more expensive. Also, I believe your Neck is pitched back some. This does two things and the Shim under the fingerboard may have been put to help this along. The pitched back Neck helps to raise up the bridge height and can also slightly lengthen the mensur/string length as well.

To fix and get to under 107cm or 106.5, the easiest is the Bridge moved up to sit above the F-notches, not on the centers. Being that you are between a D and Eb Heel, a false Nut would help correct that to a D and also shorten the mensur as well.

I did this 'exact' same thing on my Loveri. It was over 109cm (43" or so) and I wanted it under 42"/-107. The Heel stop was also between a D and Eb just like your Bass so, I made a false Nut for it and moved the bridge feet up. I ended with about 41.5"/105.4 or so and a D-Neck as well.

Look at the pics here of the way it was after my work;


How does this affect the sound? Well, the longer string length is a looser feel and deeper sound but only slightly. The shorter length is tighter and more focused sounding, slightly only again.

With a good sounding Bass, playability is more important than 10% of sound difference. If you can't play the Bass, what good is it to you?

Remember to move the soundpost as well when you 'cheat' the Bridge forward.

This Loveri by the way was recently sold to a fine professional Orchestral player working in Europe. He sounds way better than I ever did on the Bass. I am glad the Loveri has a new home now. Buying old un-playable or barely-playable Basses and restoring them gives me great joy when the conclusion is a new home with a pro orchestra player and a renewed life for the Bass as well. That's what it's all about!

[Fernando González]

Thanks Ken.
I have one more question. If you want to enlarge the neckstand to 30 mm (as for example has my Poellman), do you keep the same bridge height? or do you mantain the angle and therefore you raise the brigde height? In this case a little more pressure on the top won´t be a trouble.

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Fernando González

Thanks Ken.
I have one more question. If you want to enlarge the neckstand to 30 mm (as for example has my Poellman), do you keep the same bridge height? or do you mantain the angle and therefore you raise the brigde height? In this case a little more pressure on the top won´t be a trouble.

That I believe is a question for Arnold. He re-worked both of my recent Pollmanns and would be better if he answered that. If you move the Neck out and leave the same angle the Bridge will rise. Usually on most German Basses and even on Pollmanns they can benefit from a higher Bridge as many of them the height is barely 6" (152.4mm). Again, current measurements would help to determine what is needed. If the angle is too steep and the bridge height is already good, reducing the angle of the Neck pitch at the block might be necessary.

[Fernando González]

Thanks Ken!!!
What is the correct angle of the neck? Does it depends of another measurements of the bass or there is, more or less, a standart?

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Fernando González

Thanks Ken!!!
What is the correct angle of the neck? Does it depends of another measurements of the bass or there is, more or less, a standart?

This, I do not know. What I do like is about 35mm or overstand and 6.5 - 7" of Bridge height. The height depends on the Arch of the Bass as well as the feel of each individual instrument.

When a Luthier knows the actual Bass well, he can usually do his best job to make corrections and adjustments.

[Fernando González]

I understand Ken.
When I began to study music it looked a very long way. I think violin making/repair looks the same!!!
Much to learn.

Thank you.

Fernando.