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To Cut, or Not to Cut? (TB Save)
On 7/4/06 I authored a Thread on TalkBass titled "To Cut, or Not to Cut. That is the Question". In order to protect the contents of this subject in the event it gets deleted from TB, I would like to basically copy MY posts over to here for viewing and discussion. The Blue "hyper text' above will link you over to the original TB Thread as long as it's there.
This Thread is about the restoration of my Mystery Bass and has been discussed quite a bit as well. I copied over my TB thread about the Bass some time ago but didn't bring this text over. Although it's basically old news to me and many others I think people who haven't read this might enjoy going thru the motions as I have over the last 4 years. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- In March of 2004 I made a Thread about a new Bass I had just bought titled "Name That Bass". It was a complete mystery and was dubbed the 'Mystery Bass'. At that time I had two Basses that I used but was looking for a fine Olde Orchestral Bass to settle down with. That was before I started buying other Basses and selling them off after restoration and a few concerts to sample the goods so to speak while I wait for my 'Holy Grail'. Old Thread here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=118707 The Mystery Bass is now on its final leg of work before the re-assembly starts. The Top and Back have been off and the Ribs are in 5 sections with the upper Bouts still attached to the Neck Block. All the Blocks are still intact glued to one of the Rib pieces. The Top, Back and most of the Ribs are done as far as all the cracks go. The Bass Bar and Back X-brace will stay as is because it's looks just fine. Now for the question. When I bought this, it was to become my main Bass so playability was a major factor for me. I discussed this with my old friend, fellow Bassist, long time repairman/restorer and mentor, Paul Biase. The String length when I bought the Bass was close to 44" and I was looking for 42" maximum. We discussed either cutting the shoulders/upper bouts of both the Top and Back, re-shaping them and then restoring the Purfling on the Top or maybe cutting the Ribs at the upper Bout/corner block, sliding them down on the corner blocks and trimming the Top and Back around the new lowered shape and then restore the Purfling on the Top as the Back is un-purfled (those lazy English!). This plan has been on the table for over 2 years now but many things have happened since then that is now giving me second thoughts. First, I recieved a large German Bass in trade awhile back that had a similar String length. I brought it to Arnold and he suggested a 'Block cut' as he called it. The Top and Back came off for other repairs so he made a new Neck Block, Set the Neck Lower in the Block and then trimmed the Top & Back in the Block area just slightly as well as giving it some added neck-stand to play over the shoulders. He got the String Length from 43 7/8ths to 42 3/8ths. That's 1 1/2" less without cutting the Bass. Before; http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...relliBass2.htm After; http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...orelliBass.htm I used this Bass for a few concerts and even did Beethoven's 5th fingering all the moving low notes on the extension. It was tiring but rewarding. Arnold was also able to reduce the String length on a full sized Prescott I bought (and since sold) but that was mostly due to the neck graft being a D-neck from an Eb-neck. We also cheated the Bridge a little as well as on the Morelli. One day I was in Arnold's shop and he gave me a huge Italian Bass to try. I played it and got around kinda ok. He said "you just played a 44" String Length". I was surprised but after taking a second look, I saw that the numbers were in my head a little as well, more than in my fingers! The point of this Thread is to Poll opinions with discussion as to (1) Leave the Bass with it's shoulders as-is and do the 'Block Cut', D-neck graft (already planned) and cheat the Bridge up a bit, (2) Cut it as planned or (3) Do nothing and play it as a 44" and possibly cripple myself over time..lol Your thoughts please Ladies, Gentleman, Luthiers and Luthierettes....... http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double..._that_bass.htm |
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new to DB.. (7/06)
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The main question here is should I go slightly over 42" or even to 43" and let well enough alone? This way I could slightly modify and adjust the length and still hear the full air volume and tone of the Bass. I bought it unplayable so I have no idea what this Bass can do. It's all been speculation up to now. Thank's for your reply. |
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Look after Cut? (7/06)
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The shoulders would look almost the same up at the neck but the edges will loose their curve after they would be trimmed to match the shape of the Ribs. The plan was to cut the Ribs about 2" or less from the corner block area of the upper bout and re-attach the Ribs to the upper Corner block. Then re-trim the Top and Back to match so the upper bout would then be shorter making the string length shorter. With the 'Block Cut' the Ribs might be trimmed about 1/2" up at the Neck and a deeper Neck-set into the Block (or new neck block if needed) would be done. The Back Neck Button would get the most trimming with this method. Cheating the Bridge will only help about 1/2" in the String length. I don't remember if the Bass had a D or Eb neck when I estimated the old string length but it will be a D-Neck. I bought a beautiful piece of Maple with matching curl to the Back about 2 years ago. The gears going in the Bass are English made Baker style but on the modern side. On the Back Braces, I don't have any Pics now but I will get some next time I am in NY hopefully before the Top goes on. The original lower crossbars were twin rails about 1cm wide and spaced about 2cms apart. The scars of this early gamba style bracing are still visible. I guess the maker thought this would be stronger and lighter for the over 29" (originally) wide lower bout. The Purfling runs off both the upper and lower bouts showing about 1/2" of trimming the width per side was done at some point. I don't know how tall those rails were but at least as tall as the were wide if not more. |
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Neck Block.. (7/06)
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String length is an issue mainly due to playability. The measurement from the Bridge to the Neck is way long. Getting over shoulders is one thing but reaching the end of the fingerboard is another. This Bass will be set-up as a full sized Orchestral Bass and not at all intended for solo work. It's a 'sit back and enjoy the ride' type of Bass in my eyes. |
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Usage.. (7/06)
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Block Cut... (7/06)
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This is the Morelli before the block-cut, http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...s/fullback.jpg http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...es/pufling.JPG And this is it after the cut, http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...images/693.jpg http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...images/688.jpg http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...images/705.jpg http://www.kensmithbasses.com/Double...images/692.jpg The Block area would be flatter than before with wide Ebony strips covering the top view of the Block that the Ribs do not cover as seen in the 'after' photos. The Ribs will be cut back just a bit to allow for this lower set block. Currently the Neck just sits up on the Ribs with only a Dovetail going into the shallow block. If I can, I will go into NY soon and take some pics while the Bass is still apart. I wish I had done this before any work was started when it first came apart just for comparison purposes. |
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