#1
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Help with my String/Bridge Height
Hi all, so I recently had my bridge re-cut since the E string side was far too low...Unfortunately, the problem has not been fixed so I decided to take measurements and see what you all think of this.
Height from belly to the top of the string at bridge: G - 16 cm D - 17 cm A - 17 cm E - 16.5 cm Height from end of fingerboard to the very under part of the string: G - 4 mm D - 6.5 mm A - 6 mm E - 5.5 mm From reading all the posts on this server it seems that my strings are not consistent in height at all... I like 4mm for the G, but the 2.5 mm height increase on the D seems like too much of a gap. I also need way more than 5.5 mm on the E string, it seems that it should be at least 7 mm... I also noticed that the strings aren't exactly IN the grooves at the bridge. The G string fits in nicely, with space due to how thin it is...But the D, A and E are somewhat over the slots. My nut spacing between strings is perfect at 10 mm, and the height is consistent. Also, the spacing between the strings at the bridge is consistent at 25 mm. |
#2
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yikes..
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25mm spoacing is tight for a 5-string for bowing. 26-27 is better. For a 4-string orchestra bass, 26mm minimum to about 2 mm is the average, the 26mm being tight. 9-10mm or 3/8" at the nut is fine. Height under the string at the Nut should be a business card above 'zero'. Sounds like this bass you have is in need of a 'bass player's' set-up. If playing solo only, the 25mm might work but with those heights, I can see now why you have been hunting for strings. Come here if you can and play some of the basses here known by players as the best set-up group of basses at any shop on average. All of them are my basses and all were done for easy of playing with the bow, fingers, solo, orchestra, jazz etc. combined. Did you ever read Arnold's set-up measurements here on the Forum? Introduced here. Numbers are just that, numbers. I don't have the exact set-up numbers on every bass. What I do shoot for is the best set-up for each bass. Fingerboard curve/arch and camber/relief also play a huge factor in my mind. I like my boards a tad less than straight as far as the relief goes. In my opinion, once you know the best numbers for your bass and playing, the communication with your Luthier will improve. The problem arises sometimes when other things on a bass do not allow the optimum set-up. Neck over stand and fingerboard shape play a role here as well. the straightness of the neck under the fingerboard is at least equally important. The neck reinforced with CF graphite is always a plus for that. The music on the bass is so hard for our large instrument. Fighting the bass itself with a bad set-up or other inherent problems just takes the fun out of playing, totally. If the G is 4mm then I would try for 4/5/6/7 (low arch) or 4/5.5/7/8.5 (bigger arch) or something close to 4-8 or so and increase all the numbers if the G is higher. The FB curve must follow the bridge to some degree. |
#3
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What Ken said...
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#4
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Thank you VERY much for your reply. It seems that I definitely need to get the bridge/fingerboard plained correctly once and for all. I must admit it is a bit of a chore playing in thumb position considering the heights are so out of whack...I also can't really dig into the E string because of how low it is.
I had an audition the other day, and I actually got to the finals but the committee told me to raise my string heights...ha! It's a bit tough in this city to find a repair person who also plays bass. Most of them are violinists at general music stores. It seems 4,5,6,7 would be good, now I just need to find someone to do it! |
#5
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Calvin, 4mm under your G string is not going to allow you to bow aggressively. Typically, classical players keep the G at about 6mm. Good luck with your set-up, hope you find someone to get it right for you...
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#6
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If I had a job already I'd set my bass up with G at 7mm, but I don't really have that option. |
#7
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4mm?
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Arnold (above) has worked on both of these basses and has seen many many top pros play on them in his shop. He can go into better detail as far as the various heights here and there vs the playability soft thru heavy playing. Now, if you just bought some old German shop bass with a long Eb neck and a thinned fingerboard I could understand you having problems due to the bass being out of repair set-up wise but, I am under the impression here that you have a brand new handmade bass. In my opinion, we should not be having this discussion. It is no rocket science to get a bass to play fairly well especially if it just left the makers hands. Did someone mess with the bass since it was made or has been fiddled with over and over by someone else who is not qualified to be doing so? I have to say that between strings and set-up issues, you have been on at least 2 forums 'hunting' for answers way more than you did about the actual build of the bass before hand. Please fill us in on how you got to this point and condition of bass IF we are talking about the new one you just had made. |
#8
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#9
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so all I want are answers?
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If you want answers and demand them to guide you perfectly, HIRE a Bass set-up consultant. Short of that, you are stuck with the answers given on the Forums. Sorry! |
#10
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I don't demand anything. I share my experiences and hope that someone like yourself or Arnold will shine some light onto this scenario as you both have experience with bass set-ups. I don't know of any "set-up consultants", at least in my area. Perhaps the best solution is to pack my bass up and drive south of the border and get it set-up properly once and for all. |
#11
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And I think you answered your own question. The forums can only answer so much, IMO. |
#12
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You guys are used to playing great basses, so all I want are answers.
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#13
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Doesn't Edgar Meyer and Jeff Bradetich play with super low action? Probably much lower than 4mm on the G.
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#14
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lol..
Yes, Typo.. 'sTuck' was the word.. sorry.. Thanks for pointing that out..
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#15
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#16
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??
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I can't answer you on that. Jeff and I were staying at the same hotel last week at the ISB by chance. Maybe had you asked me 2 weeks ago, I could of asked him one morning at breakfast! |
#17
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Calvin, it's important that the fingerboard arch be set properly before the bridge curvature can be worked out. If the fingerboard is too flat (cross-ways) the outside strings will have to be low or you won't be able to bow the bass. If you are going to use 25mm spacing at the bridge, which is quite narrow (27-28 is "normal"), the fingerboard will need to be more arched than usual. I hope this is clear and helpful...
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#18
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#19
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Should the strings fit IN the bridge/nut grooves or over? My G-string if fairly thin in gauge (Pirastro Flat-Chromesteel) so it has a lot of space in the bridge slot, whereas the rest of the strings are on top of the groove.
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#20
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I like the strings to sit about 3/4 of the way down into the groove. And I want the groove a few thousandths wider than the string. (Don't you just hate words like "thousandths" with five consonants in a row? Doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, does it?)
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