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A status update:
So, I had a little extra time this weekend due to a light studio day on Saturday and having Monday off for President's day. I was able to get the bass out in the shop and get some work done. 1) The nut- it was about two business cards, so I filed the nut slots down some to lower it. 2) I scraped the FB and re-dressed it to address any extra scoop on the board. I didn't find it to be drastically scooped, but this took some of the extra out. Don't worry, I still have plenty of meat on the board. 3) I made a high saddle for the bass out of a nice piece of lacewood. I removed the old saddle, which was about the same thickness as the top and replaced it with one that sits about an inch and a half over the top. I left some space between the sides of the saddle and the top to avoid any additional saddle cracks. I also lengthened the TP wire (obviously) to accomodate the change and a little extra for feel. 4) The sound post was right on where Ken described, so I left it alone. (I have some ankle weights that I place on the top to hold up a sound post. They are covered in fabric and I just put a shop towel down underneath to prevent any scratches. Result- The overall feel of the bass is much better. I don't consider the problem solved, but it is much improved. The raised saddle probably did more to alleviate the tension than anything. I think the tension is due to a geometry problem with the bass. I had one of my students here doing some odd jobs, so I got him to play the bass when he was done. It seems much more resonant to my ear. Thanks again for all of the suggestions, I and my hands appreciate it! Best, Brian |
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