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#42
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why?
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#43
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I have tried all alternatives in my three basses. In wooden floors the KC endpin (carbon rod with wooden pin) works better in all of them. The CF rod i bought from Upton makes also an improvement in wooden floors but in concrete (tiles, marble etc) the effect is not so strong. "Better" means louder, warmer and IMHO more fundamentals.
However, following some of master Arnold's observations, i managed to optimise the sound of two "dark" basses with metal rods in ebony endpins housings (cut in the needed length). In those basses the wooden pins didn't make any difference. Now i'm working in a German hybrid which has a"choked" sound. The CF by Upton seems to be the best solution so far but i have to record the change each time in order to arrive in proper conclusions. |
#44
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CF Rods..
I don't know where Arnold and Jeff gets theirs (the same one) but it's about the best I have seen anywhere. Arnold? Does it have a name?
Anyway, my current main Bass is kinda huge so I have it all the way in or an inch out at most for the spike for sitting. I did one orchestra concert standing and it was difficult to find a height I liked for both the left or right hand combined. Sitting seems to make the difference. Most or my endpin in in the bass, not sticking out. I have cut one of them already and may cut this one as well. If I lean the bass back further I can raise the 'pin up a bit but then the angle of my bow arm is increased and I don't like that at all. The straighter the better for me. |
#45
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#46
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http://www.n-pin.com Finest end-pin in the market, the carbon fibre rod weighs around 30 grams. |
#47
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You don't have to worry about stripping the screw since it has a bike-clamp mechanism. Also the carbide tip never wears down and it works on almost every surface, very stable! |
#49
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Still, I find that even the modestly angled pin was worth doing. Besides the effect on playability of moving the center of gravity rearwards (which I find quite positive), my reason for doing it was to reduce skating. I don't know why, but I cannot use a rubber tip when sitting. Unless I have my sharp point deeply embedded in the floor, or have a belt connecting my pin to my stool, I will chase the bass all the way up to the conductor before the first break. Having an angled pin greatly reduces this tendancy. Also, you reduce the active length of the endpin, which is especially beneficial for tall players. Having 15" of pin sticking out in front of you is bad for several reasons, stress on the bottom block being a big one. Cellists have adopted the "angle" in large numbers. I think they know something. Since most bassists don't extend their endpins very far, it is a lesser issue for us, but I think not insignificant. So far, the choices are to either bore a second hole (Laborie), schlepp some heavy hardware - which looks like it came from a suspension bridge - (Eggpin), or use a bent pin which destroys the collar/setscrew. I never tried to market my angled socket because I decided players wouldn't accept the fatness or reduced angle. I think angled pins are a good idea, but a good design has yet to be offered. |
#50
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Suggestions for replacement endpin/socket
I'm thinking about replacing my endpin and would like to know which you prefer. I've looked at the KCStrings, Onyx, Ulsa on the web. Any others?
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