![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
A very dark hardwood, like rosewood, walnut or ebony, so as not to detract from the flame?
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Rosewood or Ebony will move and shrink at a much greater rate than Maple throughout the seasons. Also, they are Oily woods and should be de-resinated befor gluing. On the Loveri, we used Tropical Walnut which I supplied, aged in my stock for over 15 years.
|
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
I'm looking sideways at a nice sliver of very dark zebrawood right now. You can hardly see the brown/black striping, but it is there.
|
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Indeed. I have a chunk of that right now I'm thinking about as a bridge block on an electric guitar to contrast the reddish finish. |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Personally, I don't think dimensional stability on a 2mm wide piece of whatever is anywhere near as important as the dimensional stability of the 14" wide pieces of maple its glued to! Even if it is (properly seasoned) wood that shrinks and expands more than maple, it is only a very small percentage of its own dimension, and a small percentage of 2mm is a tiny fraction of a small percentage of the maple, if you see what i mean. And the long-ways shrinkage is insignificant. I'm more concerned about it "taking" hide glue but I haven't yet met a wood that can't be glued with hide glue very well. I'm sure they exist but i haven't found it yet.
I have not personally seen the need to de-resin (or de-oil!) ebony before gluing. And none of my fingerboards have fallen off yet. The only problem *I* have with purpleheart is the revolting colour. How anyone can love it, is beyond me :-) |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
All good points Ken.
On the other hand, a fingerboard is a much bigger chunk of ebony, glued to a smaller chunk of maple. So the movement is going to be more significant there. |
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
![]() |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 23 (0 members and 23 guests) | |
|
|