Endpin talk...

[Ken Smith]

I tested a loose fitted KC endpin on my Hart 2 weeks ago and now I have the real thing. I had it bored for 1/2" CF which I have a cut-off from my CF endpin to glue in myself.

I tested this one (Wood pin with carbon fiber rod) on both my Gilkes and Hart Bass. The CF endpin I use is also cut short to just clear the block inside. This was by the way 1/2 the weight of the KC unit I just got. Sound difference on carpet, slightly deeper only and no noticeable difference in volume.

I bought a second one for my Martini which has a steel rod. I also have the Rod cut short. Comparing the weight between the KC and the shorter Steel rod I have is .8 ounces difference with the Steel slightly heavier.

Sound difference on the Martini? Slightly deeper on the carpet and again not much if any Volume difference.

These are 3 great master grade basses that are tweaked to the hilt already. Not much room for improvement but this new endpin idea still made all of my Basses sound slightly fuller and deeper.

One one Bass we did test 2 weeks ago, a Germanic 100 year old Bass with a long metal steel rod. This Bass had a noticeable improvement with the KC unit on a hard floor.

Conclusion! On master grade old Basses in their best condition, there is still some room for a tweak here and there. On other Basses from good to not so good, more room for improvements are always there. If you have an Endpin sticking past the Block inside your Bass after the height is adjusted, measure the overhang and cut off the excess. This is 'dead' tone sucking weight.

Bravo to KC for a great new product with custom service and fast turn around... I tip my hat!

[Calvin Marks]

http://www.n-pin.com/

These end pins are incredible. They're ridiculously light, and you'll never have to sharpen the tip. My teacher uses one on his Panormo.

[Eric Swanson]

Those look really nice...thanks for sharing that link. Looks like the only thing to avoid would be hitting the endpin tip or standing the bass on something really hard (like a music stand base or concrete, if playing outdoors). Carbide is so brittle. Seems like it would last a long, long time if just used on wood floors...

[Calvin Marks]

Hey guys.

ONYX Musical Products just came out with an all rosewood or ebony end-pin system, meaning the rod and plug are all rosewood or ebony. I saw one of these recently on a bass in a shop in Toronto, they look, sound and work GREAT.

http://shop5.mailordercentral.com/le.../products/318/

[Ken Smith]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

Hey guys.

ONYX Musical Products just came out with an all rosewood or ebony end-pin system, meaning the rod and plug are all rosewood or ebony. I saw one of these recently on a bass in a shop in Toronto, they look, sound and work GREAT.

http://shop5.mailordercentral.com/le.../products/318/

I had an Ebony Endpin and Socket on my Italian Bass in 1973. I sold it 20 years later with the same unit in it. I don't remember the name of the unit, just the Material. It went into restoration needing both the unit and a Tailpiece. The restorer Peter Eibert put the unit in along with a Hill style (or Hill) Rosewood TP. It too stayed with the bass all 20 years as well. One sound post, one bridge, 19th century tuners, etc. The only thing I changed in 20 years with that bass were the strings a few times.. lol

This brought back some memories. Sorry to slide off topic..

[Pino Cazzaniga]

I saw some Rubner and some Pollmann instruments with two holes in the block, one for the end button and one for the endpin. I don't like it so much, but it make easier to look at the soundpost fit when the basses are strung.
About bent endpins I have no experience, as none of my clients use them.
I made some "all wood" stuff . The button has a conical hole in which a shaft ( also conical at the upper part ) is fit. At the tip of the shaft a screw is sharpened for wooden floors. The hole need to be waxed to take the shaft off. For different heights it need different shafts, plus one, very short, to transport. It seem to work with sound, mostly with readyness, even with rubber, but it may be a little romantic feeling, it's hard to say...

[Calvin Marks]

Originally Posted by Pino Cazzaniga

I saw some Rubner and some Pollmann instruments with two holes in the block, one for the end button and one for the endpin. I don't like it so much, but it make easier to look at the soundpost fit when the basses are strung.
About bent endpins I have no experience, as none of my clients use them.
I made some "all wood" stuff . The button has a conical hole in which a shaft ( also conical at the upper part ) is fit. At the tip of the shaft a screw is sharpened for wooden floors. The hole need to be waxed to take the shaft off. For different heights it need different shafts, plus one, very short, to transport. It seem to work with sound, mostly with readyness, even with rubber, but it may be a little romantic feeling, it's hard to say...

I assume that by having the tailpiece tied to the end-button instead of the end-pin it would reduce the tension of the tailpiece on the body. Perhaps this would work for an old, fragile instrument that's very thinly built...In my experience Pollman's are built like a TANK, so I don't know why two holes are necessary.

[Matthew Tucker]

Originally Posted by Calvin Marks

Hey guys.

ONYX Musical Products just came out with an all rosewood or ebony end-pin system, meaning the rod and plug are all rosewood or ebony. I saw one of these recently on a bass in a shop in Toronto, they look, sound and work GREAT.

http://shop5.mailordercentral.com/le.../products/318/

The onyx pin is built solidly but in my experience with the older style onxy the rubber tip tends to unscrew and rattle when playing. rubber a bit too soft. Also, the adjuster is a knurled knob and hard to relly tighten if you need it. tends to unscrew too. I don't know about the new onyx shown.